TR Replies
a few more shots for those interested.
Wow, awesome, sounds like really great conditions.
I suppose I am a skier for most of the day :)
Here's my contribution to the photodump: https://flic.kr/s/aHskDWPkxZ.
My favourite shots of Martin:



Here's my contribution to the photodump: https://flic.kr/s/aHskDWPkxZ.
My favourite shots of Martin:



Nice report Mike. Still looks nice up there. I was up there last year earlier before my hip got totally fried (but without skis) and had a good solo trip. Went over the top and into the Chiwawa Basin by traversing down on some ledges and popped over Red Mountain. This area is one of my favorites from Wilderness Ranger days long ago.
V. nice write-up, and sweet send! Completely empathize with that leg- and will-sucking grind up the "talus" to gain the ridge after a long day...
Could you please share another pic or two of that side of the mountain, from other vantages? E.g., in addition to the nice frosty-white one from lower Ptarmigan Ridge, do you have any from higher up, or from the N Mowich Gl (presumably your camp)?
Could you please share another pic or two of that side of the mountain, from other vantages? E.g., in addition to the nice frosty-white one from lower Ptarmigan Ridge, do you have any from higher up, or from the N Mowich Gl (presumably your camp)?
Sicky-sick sick.
At least the 2nd central Mowich descent of the year---a good season!
At least the 2nd central Mowich descent of the year---a good season!
Kaston - Ha! Didn't know you'd be reading my post. I'll get it right next time :)
Martin - Funny to think I was using you post and photos as beta all while camping right next to you. You took some awesome photos!
Did you guys manage to find any tasty food on the way back? We stopped at Bob's Burgers & Brew in Burlington.
Hope to run into you both again.
Martin - Funny to think I was using you post and photos as beta all while camping right next to you. You took some awesome photos!
Did you guys manage to find any tasty food on the way back? We stopped at Bob's Burgers & Brew in Burlington.
Hope to run into you both again.
Damn that seem's like a good year. Shasta and Rainier and who knows what else !
Keep it up!
Keep it up!
Thanks for the report. All the pertinent data. I like it when it gets warm enough (for me) to swim at Peggy's Pond. You are probably tougher than me in that regard. That steep chute getting thin, I've backed off it when the thin became scary and I was afraid of falling in a hole. Probably time to start watching that.
Impressive work guys, thanks for the TR!
Thanks all. Probably a couple weeks left, go get it!
The skiing was still pretty good this weekend (23-24 July) but the glacier is not as smooth as 10 days ago, largely due to rain. As mentioned there was significant sloughing on the South portion of Roman Wall at noon. In my view this was because there is still unconsolidated water soaked layer that will benefit from few days of melt/freeze. It might get better soon.
Nice to meet fellow skiers at the summit!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/runningclouds/albums/721576714672054...
Nice to meet fellow skiers at the summit!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/runningclouds/albums/721576714672054...
Great write up - way to grab a king line in killer conditions!
I ascended along the margin of the Klickitat Glacier Sunday, too. The wild east side has shed most of its friendly winter coat.
Any SAR-connected people know where we might contribute our Sunday GPS track to the searchers? Please email/PM (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. )
Support your local SAR teams -- these big searches demand so much effort and sacrifice.
Any SAR-connected people know where we might contribute our Sunday GPS track to the searchers? Please email/PM (
Support your local SAR teams -- these big searches demand so much effort and sacrifice.
Charlie, I spoke with a SAR person who was there on Sunday. One theory is that the missing climber may have descended east/southeast in the whiteout from the summit instead of returning down the south route. But, they just don't know.
Nice meeting you all, it is a small world, or as someone on the summit said: это маленький мир!
I will post a bigger version to my Flickr later.
I will post a bigger version to my Flickr later.
Inspiring descent, and well timed. Good luck with your next trip!
Great pics! It was nice to meet you guys up there. Runningclouds and I are the two you're talking about. But don't call me a skier :)
We summited Sherman & Grant via the Squak Glacier yesterday (7/24). We used this report and runningcloud's photos as beta, but were a bit confused about the description of the icefall above 8500'. We headed left around the a large icefall right below 8000' but other than that didn't run into any issues. There were a few small cracks but nothing impassable. The roman wall similarly had some crevasses starting to form but nothing major. We did...
Certainly a fun day. Thanks for the write-up. Here is an after/before pic. The before is from November of 2011.

And a couple ski pictures. It really was fun skiing!


And a couple ski pictures. It really was fun skiing!

That was awesome!! Thank you for posting all those pics. Can you post the entire video? I've skiied from the summit down west crater rim all the way to the highway. Always dreamed of skiing the Sandy Headwall. What you did looks much scarier.
Great writeup! Fun to read and good photos.
Nice writeup, Jim. I especially enjoyed the old Couloir pics. Coombs!
author=mikerolfs link=topic=36728.msg149603#msg149603 date=1468687278]
I also looked at your smugmug photos. What kind of tele set-up are you using? Looks like a duck-butt with pin toes
This was super confusing for a few minutes. What type of tele-photo lens has anything that looks like a duck-butt ?? :)
Great photos as always - thanks for sharing
Erik
Excellent news. Did you ascend directly from Morrison Creek, through the campground, or drive in the morning to Cold Springs? Cheers
author=GoodVibesOnly link=topic=36734.msg149629#msg149629 date=1468899252]
We camped at Morrison Creek Thursday night to avoid the Cold Springs mayhem and drove up the final couple miles in the morning. I'm surprised more people don't do this on busy nights as the camping is soooo much nicer below. Not to mention much less car traffic rolling through at night.
I've wondered about that, too. But, I'v...
Looks like a great day in the mountains. I like the black and white spooky stair case. Looks like it could be from a fairy tale.
Really like the first picture!!! Inspiration for a future oil painting.
Thanks for posting these great pictures, turns look good as well.
Epic ride, what an effort! Well done and thanks for the TR.
Two weeks (not quite) later, snow at lower elevation melted out significantly but higher up it still is holding well. Snow is more bumpy closer to the ridge and Anvil Rock, smooth lower down.




Mike and Dave:
I've been using Meidjo bindings for a few seasons. But those in the photo are home-made prototype functions like Meidjo. So far, so good. I'll post some pics and info sometime, soon.
Martin:
I saw you guys above the ice fall. Since you were heading up toward Sherman Peak, I thought those foot paths were to the summit. I'll follow your way next time!
I've been using Meidjo bindings for a few seasons. But those in the photo are home-made prototype functions like Meidjo. So far, so good. I'll post some pics and info sometime, soon.
Martin:
I saw you guys above the ice fall. Since you were heading up toward Sherman Peak, I thought those foot paths were to the summit. I'll follow your way next time!
Hey Mike,
I believe Kenji's skiing the Meidjo binding. I've been watching that one for the last season. Lots of chatter about it on the Earn Your Turns site... Tempting.
-Dave
I believe Kenji's skiing the Meidjo binding. I've been watching that one for the last season. Lots of chatter about it on the Earn Your Turns site... Tempting.
-Dave
author=bfree32 link=topic=36707.msg149591#msg149591 date=1468552248]
lost their iPhone (pink case) on the glacier, likely just below Anvil rock, and would appreciate if folks kept an eye out.
PM sent
That's a lot of words Jim. ;)
Awesome stuff, so stoked you pulled it off!
Awesome stuff, so stoked you pulled it off!
fantastic write-up! congrats on such a great climb & descent.
Aha, that was you! We saw your afternoon tracks in the morning and then you skinning up solo. I did think the boot pack traversed off in the wrong direction, we went up straight to Sherman Peak. The skiing was better than expected. Beautiful shots Kenji! Next time I hope to say hi!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/runningclouds/albums/72157671113834575
https://www.flickr.com/photos/runningclouds/albums/72157671113834575
Your photos are always amazing, Kenji. I like the star picture.
I also looked at your smugmug photos. What kind of tele set-up are you using? Looks like a duck-butt with pin toes. I use the TTS system with pin toes and a heel spring. I haven't seen your system before.
I also looked at your smugmug photos. What kind of tele set-up are you using? Looks like a duck-butt with pin toes. I use the TTS system with pin toes and a heel spring. I haven't seen your system before.
I read the whole thing and enjoyed it all. Thanks for the report!
Kenji, I had my heart set on spending the night on Dege to shoot some time-lapses - I love that view. Not really any good spots to bivy, though I managed to find an ok spot for my neo-air wedged between sharp rocks.