TR Replies

What a fantastic day... Great pictures Pete. Mine pale in comparison, so I will add only this one, which more or less summarized the day for me:

6/18/11 9:54am

wolfs

Great pix and good call. I have never seen the snow fields as smooth as they appear in your pictures.

Looks like if that snow bridge melts out you could build a kicker and air over Falls Creek on the way in .... and worry about the way out later.

6/18/11 9:38am

Pete A

June 10-11, 2011, Middle Sister (Hayden/Renfrew)

pics here: https://picasaweb.google.com/petealderson/RainierVanTrumpGlaciers#

6/18/11 9:26am

rlsg

THANKS FOR THE BEAUTIFUL TRIP REPORT!!!!!!!!!!!

6/18/11 9:04am

rlsg

Skip the ascenders; skip the prusiks; USE THE KLIEMHIEST KNOT (sp.?).

Don't tie in--use two ' biners opposite and apposed..you may need to get the rope off so you can set up z and c pulley systems etc....also, make sure when you anchor the weighted rope, you can release it easily from the anchor, but make sure the easily released knot to the anchor is backed up in case in accidentally released ("too easily").

If had lots of knots in the rope, it wo...

6/18/11 8:54am

ron j

June 17, 2011, Teanaway Fortune S Ingalls

Nice call.
Way to nail it.

6/18/11 8:47am

artfreeman

Mainly the left one. But my doc gave me some Oxaprozin, which I wish I had tried earlier since it worked really well. Of course, the "rare" side affects are kind of scary. So I am happy, at least for now. Better skiing through chemistry. Maybe there should be a forum just for old guys to discuss health issues!
Art

6/18/11 8:47am

Zap

June 17, 2011, Teanaway Fortune S Ingalls

Art, I thought you said your hips are hurting. Nice turns.

6/18/11 8:32am

Zap

June 15, 2011, South Sister corn

Yeah, the pics of the 2500vf of hero snow would brighten the rainy day in the lowlands. ;)

6/18/11 8:25am

rootsman

Any parking issues?

6/18/11 1:42am

teledavid

June 16, 2011, Alpental experiment

Telemack, I am a cheapskate and my last name is Walker. I also like to tinker with what i have and not buy more stuff. Lets do ski together!

6/17/11 11:14pm

andyrew

June 15, 2011, Continental Divide, CO, Moon Corn

Great story. Thanks for posting. Inspires me to go out on a moonlight sortie.

6/17/11 4:56pm

telemack

June 15, 2011, Continental Divide, CO, Moon Corn

Beautiful! Where?

It's too bad the warmongers don't experience nature more....they might chill out.

6/17/11 3:40pm

telemack

June 17, 2011, Mt St Helens Worm Flows

Nice TR! Does your lab drop the knee or just schuss behind you? ;D
We have a lab terrier named Taska and she, despite her below-average size, used to come along whenever she was allowed. She would wait at the top of the slope while I skied it, and then on signal would gallop straight down my tracks and turn S-carves into dollar signs. I worked with her for months as a pup, but never taught her that.
Now she's over 13, deaf, arthritic, and can't do hills so well. ...

6/17/11 3:33pm

Randito

June 17, 2011, Silver Peak

Sking with Silias is always entertaining

6/17/11 2:10pm

NoSnowJustIce

June 17, 2011, Silver Peak

It really was a great day up there!

6/17/11 1:56pm

Robie

June 17, 2011, Silver Peak

Good on ya Silas ! For a minute I thought you were lost in Oregon?

6/17/11 1:04pm

RonL

June 15, 2011, Continental Divide, CO, Moon Corn

Good to know you are keeping reason in check.

6/17/11 12:14pm

Joedabaker

June 12, 2011, Scatter Peak, Ten Pass Tour

That's quite a slide in 2nd to last picture. Was that from cornice failure? I covered a wide swath. What do you suspect the layer it slid on was?

Anyhow, excellent TR. It's great that you guys navigate all the terrain.

6/17/11 10:42am

ADappen

June 12, 2011, Scatter Peak, Ten Pass Tour

I tried posting a map of the area but the resolution wasn't good at this size so I deleted it and added a few more photos instead.

6/17/11 9:50am

old guy

If climber 1, who is in the crevasse, isn't hurt and can start ascending the rope then climber two can prepare the edge as Stuckdog mentioned. You can take the loose end of the rope and toss down to climber 1 to switch over to in order to come over the edge since his rope will be buried. If he is injured and you are pulling him up with a pulley system then when he reaches the point where the rope is buried into the edge then take the tail end of the rope which will now have all...

6/17/11 8:56am

stuckidog

June 16, 2011, Alpental experiment

Great thread, and compliments to Old Guy.

This is how I picture the rescue scenario of just two climbers:

Use a 50m-60m rope and coil the last 25-30% of each end around each climber. This puts you at a safe distance to one another and allows for enough rope at the end to assist in the rescue. Each climber has prussiks attached to the rope with the ends in your harness. Now, climber 1 falls in and climber 2 arrests the fall.

Climber 2 will be able to hold climber...

6/17/11 7:50am

Randito

BTW David -- I did the same thing to a pair of old T-Race boots -- based on instructions given in the old original Russel Rainey HammerHead bindings mounting instructions VHS tape. Not only do the rounded off duckbills offer easier walking and cramponing -- but when used with HammerHeads there is a quasi-disaster release -- in that when you fall backwards the rounded duckbill will pull out of the toe piece more easily than a stander duckbill. On two occations I experien...

6/17/11 4:01am

trees4me

June 12, 2011, Vesper Peak

Looks really nice! Its good to see a trip report from the reopened loop.

Too bad all the butt's ruined your line :'(

6/17/11 2:09am

telemack

June 16, 2011, Alpental experiment

This is a very informative thread. Good effort and high-fives to your big day.
It may be worth pointing out the biggest success, knots or no knots:
They stayed out of crevasses.
It's like a beacon, shovel and probe: always carry, never need.

6/16/11 2:08pm

telemack

This could get moved to Random Tracks eventually, but whateva. I've seen some earlier posts and I applaud your innovative spirit. I have to wonder, are you poor as a church mouse, a cheapskate of Scottish descent like myself, a Mormon trying to put eight kids through college ;), or merely an all-American iconoclast who loves to go it alone?
I used to have a pair of those Garmont Veloces, and they are soft to the point of being flaccid with good cable bindings and midfat skis. (I...

6/16/11 1:50pm

old guy

June 12, 2011, Scatter Peak, Ten Pass Tour

Wow - this thread is getting really scary. I am reading some really dumb stuff out there guys! Don't believe everything you read. If you do then come out with us on some body recoveries and learn the truth. Has anyone ever heard of a knot stopping someone from falling in a crevasse? And are you serious in using the example of traveling on a glacier with a partner that doesn't know how to set up a pulley system? And if you are taking the time to rope...

6/16/11 8:16am

Randito

Sweet!

6/16/11 8:04am

Shred

June 15, 2011, Bend Back Yard

Blindfolding!!! By any chance did the Terra- Firma have a volcanic feel to it? ;D Let me guess; he disguised the car beers too.

6/16/11 2:14am

alecapone

May 17-20 Glacier Peak via the Chocolate Glacier

No one cares what you did last month. ;)

but seriously... awesome trip! Congrats on the chocolate HW. wish I coul have joined you.

Hope your having a good time down in SA.

6/16/11 1:28am

alecapone

June 10-11, 2011, Middle Sister (Hayden/Renfrew)

Looking great down there Matt!

6/16/11 1:02am

Marcus

June 3 and 7 Cannon and Colchuck

Sweet work Drew, thanks for sharing. Looks like a hump to get out of the Thunder Creek valley.

6/16/11 12:53am

alecapone

I heart that road too... ::)

nice coule outings.. furious squirrel??

6/16/11 12:53am

alecapone

Cool trip!

The McAllister camp has a nice ring to it. Have to check it out sometime.

6/16/11 12:50am

alecapone

ha..

TAY, Kyle Miller, & North Fork snowboards. My main sources of generosity... Rico dropped me due to the MOD pizza sticker on Franklin's helmet.

6/16/11 12:48am

Marcus

SWEET! So glad they're working out for you. You can tell people you're sponsored by TAY ;)

6/16/11 12:33am

alecapone

June 4-5, 2011, Rainier, Emmons Terminus to Summit

Thanks for all the great comments!!

Anytime Lisa! And since you asked,,,

The boots I'm using are dynafit tlt 700 lowers(courtesy of Marcus!), with lowa structura light uppers. When I had them apart I also notched out the walk/ski mode bar so that it has some play even in ski mode. cut the tounges in half, dremmeled off a bunch of plastic, and got rid of some buckels. Just about got them dialed.

6/16/11 12:30am

Andrew Carey

Way to go Amar! If I didn't already have 7Summits, Volkl Snowwolfs (I'm going to swap out the tele bindings for Dynafits), and Manaslus, I think that Amaruq would be on my list, big time.

Unfortunately my 7Summits and Snowwolfs are identical in lateral dimensions (the 7s are 178 and the Wolfs 184), I bought the Summits to try out AT and now I don't use the Wolfs; but no one seems to want to buy either (I've advertised both).

6/15/11 10:45pm

Marcus

June 14, 2011, Alpental Update

Thanks for the Phantom post Zap -- time to get up there, I'd say.

6/15/11 10:40pm

telemack

June 14, 2011, Alpental Update

author=Zap link=topic=21163.msg90579#msg90579 date=1308110058]
I continue to attempt to get back in shape but it certainly is more effort than I expected.

PM sent.

6/15/11 10:02pm

glenn_b

June 4-5, 2011, Rainier, Emmons Terminus to Summit

I can't decide which topsheet is scarier. Thanks for the tr, Amar.

6/15/11 3:08pm

CookieMonster

6/12/11 - ONP - Klahanne Ridge Sun and Soup

author=Roman Rodyakin link=topic=21155.msg90648#msg90648 date=1308186807]Out of curiosity, what method of attaching yourself to a rope do you use that doesn't involve knots?

I was referring to the extra knots. Of course you have to tie in with a knot. For the record, I wasn't criticising you at all. My preference would be for zero additional knots, but that doesn't mean you can't use additional knots if you prefer.
<...

6/15/11 3:05pm

telemack

Looks & sounds very familiar. 8) The turns, not the avy---whew!

6/15/11 1:57pm

ryanl

June 4-5, 2011, Rainier, Emmons Terminus to Summit

Nice Drew! And welcome back Davide....

6/15/11 1:55pm

Amar Andalkar

Well, the free replacement parts from Salewa finally arrived on Tuesday June 14 via US postal service (8 days after I called Salewa). It turned out to be a pair of Vertical FT front baseplates instead of a single complete toepiece assembly as I'd been told on the phone, but the baseplate is exactly what I needed, so it was fine (even though not arriving by last Friday as expected).

I decided to go ahead today and buy the

6/15/11 12:29pm

iron

good stuff guys. sounds like typical franklin work. i recall a nice set of boot tracks for me heading up the N face of buckner last summer courtesy of FWB...

6/15/11 11:12am

iron

perhaps a good middle ground would simply be one knot in the center of the rope. it stops the catastrophic case while allowing the fallen climber to prusik up (if possible). also allows for easier z-pulley setup.

CM: seems like with a crevasse fall, the forces to the rope are nowhere near as large as a leader fall on rock; therefore, the strength reduction from a knot should be irrelevant. right?

6/15/11 10:58am

Roman Rodyakin

author=CookieMonster link=topic=21155.msg90634#msg90634 date=1308174373]
I don't think the knots are a good idea. Forces are concentrated in knots, which can provide a convenient place for rope failure.

Out of curiosity, what method of attaching yourself to a rope do you use that doesn't involve knots?

6/15/11 10:13am

hedonaut

nice tour, and pics, tabski. beautiful area with a bit of work up that ridge; i've bivvied at the Borealis Gl outlet before.

i recall that West-facing line on Tricouni has been skied(?), maybe you got a glimpse of it.

6/15/11 8:39am

skier8484