TR Replies
Nice TR! Does your lab drop the knee or just schuss behind you? ;D
We have a lab terrier named Taska and she, despite her below-average size, used to come along whenever she was allowed. She would wait at the top of the slope while I skied it, and then on signal would gallop straight down my tracks and turn S-carves into dollar signs. I worked with her for months as a pup, but never taught her that.
Now she's over 13, deaf, arthritic, and can't do hills so well. ...
We have a lab terrier named Taska and she, despite her below-average size, used to come along whenever she was allowed. She would wait at the top of the slope while I skied it, and then on signal would gallop straight down my tracks and turn S-carves into dollar signs. I worked with her for months as a pup, but never taught her that.
Now she's over 13, deaf, arthritic, and can't do hills so well. ...
Good on ya Silas ! For a minute I thought you were lost in Oregon?
Good to know you are keeping reason in check.
That's quite a slide in 2nd to last picture. Was that from cornice failure? I covered a wide swath. What do you suspect the layer it slid on was?
Anyhow, excellent TR. It's great that you guys navigate all the terrain.
Anyhow, excellent TR. It's great that you guys navigate all the terrain.
I tried posting a map of the area but the resolution wasn't good at this size so I deleted it and added a few more photos instead.
If climber 1, who is in the crevasse, isn't hurt and can start ascending the rope then climber two can prepare the edge as Stuckdog mentioned. You can take the loose end of the rope and toss down to climber 1 to switch over to in order to come over the edge since his rope will be buried. If he is injured and you are pulling him up with a pulley system then when he reaches the point where the rope is buried into the edge then take the tail end of the rope which will now have all...
Great thread, and compliments to Old Guy.
This is how I picture the rescue scenario of just two climbers:
Use a 50m-60m rope and coil the last 25-30% of each end around each climber. This puts you at a safe distance to one another and allows for enough rope at the end to assist in the rescue. Each climber has prussiks attached to the rope with the ends in your harness. Now, climber 1 falls in and climber 2 arrests the fall.
Climber 2 will be able to hold climber...
This is how I picture the rescue scenario of just two climbers:
Use a 50m-60m rope and coil the last 25-30% of each end around each climber. This puts you at a safe distance to one another and allows for enough rope at the end to assist in the rescue. Each climber has prussiks attached to the rope with the ends in your harness. Now, climber 1 falls in and climber 2 arrests the fall.
Climber 2 will be able to hold climber...
BTW David -- I did the same thing to a pair of old T-Race boots -- based on instructions given in the old original Russel Rainey HammerHead bindings mounting instructions VHS tape. Not only do the rounded off duckbills offer easier walking and cramponing -- but when used with HammerHeads there is a quasi-disaster release -- in that when you fall backwards the rounded duckbill will pull out of the toe piece more easily than a stander duckbill. On two occations I experien...
Looks really nice! Its good to see a trip report from the reopened loop.
Too bad all the butt's ruined your line :'(
Too bad all the butt's ruined your line :'(
This is a very informative thread. Good effort and high-fives to your big day.
It may be worth pointing out the biggest success, knots or no knots:
They stayed out of crevasses.
It's like a beacon, shovel and probe: always carry, never need.
It may be worth pointing out the biggest success, knots or no knots:
They stayed out of crevasses.
It's like a beacon, shovel and probe: always carry, never need.
This could get moved to Random Tracks eventually, but whateva. I've seen some earlier posts and I applaud your innovative spirit. I have to wonder, are you poor as a church mouse, a cheapskate of Scottish descent like myself, a Mormon trying to put eight kids through college ;), or merely an all-American iconoclast who loves to go it alone?
I used to have a pair of those Garmont Veloces, and they are soft to the point of being flaccid with good cable bindings and midfat skis. (I...
I used to have a pair of those Garmont Veloces, and they are soft to the point of being flaccid with good cable bindings and midfat skis. (I...
Wow - this thread is getting really scary. I am reading some really dumb stuff out there guys! Don't believe everything you read. If you do then come out with us on some body recoveries and learn the truth. Has anyone ever heard of a knot stopping someone from falling in a crevasse? And are you serious in using the example of traveling on a glacier with a partner that doesn't know how to set up a pulley system? And if you are taking the time to rope...
Blindfolding!!! By any chance did the Terra- Firma have a volcanic feel to it? ;D Let me guess; he disguised the car beers too.
No one cares what you did last month. ;)
but seriously... awesome trip! Congrats on the chocolate HW. wish I coul have joined you.
Hope your having a good time down in SA.
but seriously... awesome trip! Congrats on the chocolate HW. wish I coul have joined you.
Hope your having a good time down in SA.
Looking great down there Matt!
Sweet work Drew, thanks for sharing. Looks like a hump to get out of the Thunder Creek valley.
I heart that road too... ::)
nice coule outings.. furious squirrel??
nice coule outings.. furious squirrel??
Cool trip!
The McAllister camp has a nice ring to it. Have to check it out sometime.
The McAllister camp has a nice ring to it. Have to check it out sometime.
ha..
TAY, Kyle Miller, & North Fork snowboards. My main sources of generosity... Rico dropped me due to the MOD pizza sticker on Franklin's helmet.
TAY, Kyle Miller, & North Fork snowboards. My main sources of generosity... Rico dropped me due to the MOD pizza sticker on Franklin's helmet.
SWEET! So glad they're working out for you. You can tell people you're sponsored by TAY ;)
Thanks for all the great comments!!
Anytime Lisa! And since you asked,,,
The boots I'm using are dynafit tlt 700 lowers(courtesy of Marcus!), with lowa structura light uppers. When I had them apart I also notched out the walk/ski mode bar so that it has some play even in ski mode. cut the tounges in half, dremmeled off a bunch of plastic, and got rid of some buckels. Just about got them dialed.
Anytime Lisa! And since you asked,,,
The boots I'm using are dynafit tlt 700 lowers(courtesy of Marcus!), with lowa structura light uppers. When I had them apart I also notched out the walk/ski mode bar so that it has some play even in ski mode. cut the tounges in half, dremmeled off a bunch of plastic, and got rid of some buckels. Just about got them dialed.
Way to go Amar! If I didn't already have 7Summits, Volkl Snowwolfs (I'm going to swap out the tele bindings for Dynafits), and Manaslus, I think that Amaruq would be on my list, big time.
Unfortunately my 7Summits and Snowwolfs are identical in lateral dimensions (the 7s are 178 and the Wolfs 184), I bought the Summits to try out AT and now I don't use the Wolfs; but no one seems to want to buy either (I've advertised both).
Unfortunately my 7Summits and Snowwolfs are identical in lateral dimensions (the 7s are 178 and the Wolfs 184), I bought the Summits to try out AT and now I don't use the Wolfs; but no one seems to want to buy either (I've advertised both).
Thanks for the Phantom post Zap -- time to get up there, I'd say.
author=Zap link=topic=21163.msg90579#msg90579 date=1308110058]
I continue to attempt to get back in shape but it certainly is more effort than I expected.
PM sent.
I can't decide which topsheet is scarier. Thanks for the tr, Amar.
author=Roman Rodyakin link=topic=21155.msg90648#msg90648 date=1308186807]Out of curiosity, what method of attaching yourself to a rope do you use that doesn't involve knots?
I was referring to the extra knots. Of course you have to tie in with a knot. For the record, I wasn't criticising you at all. My preference would be for zero additional knots, but that doesn't mean you can't use additional knots if you prefer.
<...
Looks & sounds very familiar. 8) The turns, not the avy---whew!
Nice Drew! And welcome back Davide....
Well, the free replacement parts from Salewa finally arrived on Tuesday June 14 via US postal service (8 days after I called Salewa). It turned out to be a pair of Vertical FT front baseplates instead of a single complete toepiece assembly as I'd been told on the phone, but the baseplate is exactly what I needed, so it was fine (even though not arriving by last Friday as expected).
I decided to go ahead today and buy the
I decided to go ahead today and buy the
good stuff guys. sounds like typical franklin work. i recall a nice set of boot tracks for me heading up the N face of buckner last summer courtesy of FWB...
perhaps a good middle ground would simply be one knot in the center of the rope. it stops the catastrophic case while allowing the fallen climber to prusik up (if possible). also allows for easier z-pulley setup.
CM: seems like with a crevasse fall, the forces to the rope are nowhere near as large as a leader fall on rock; therefore, the strength reduction from a knot should be irrelevant. right?
CM: seems like with a crevasse fall, the forces to the rope are nowhere near as large as a leader fall on rock; therefore, the strength reduction from a knot should be irrelevant. right?
author=CookieMonster link=topic=21155.msg90634#msg90634 date=1308174373]
I don't think the knots are a good idea. Forces are concentrated in knots, which can provide a convenient place for rope failure.
Out of curiosity, what method of attaching yourself to a rope do you use that doesn't involve knots?
nice tour, and pics, tabski. beautiful area with a bit of work up that ridge; i've bivvied at the Borealis Gl outlet before.
i recall that West-facing line on Tricouni has been skied(?), maybe you got a glimpse of it.
i recall that West-facing line on Tricouni has been skied(?), maybe you got a glimpse of it.
That second shot of Forbidden Peak is spot on.
author=dberdinka link=topic=21155.msg90622#msg90622 date=1308165500]Pierre wrote....."Every year we hear about unroped skiers skiing into crevasses."
Do we hear about this every year? I know the guy died on Rainier (skinning up) but it seems to me that people skiing into crevasses on the way down is a surprising rare to almost non-existent event.
Summer 2009, probably June 30. I remember this one really well b/c...
I don't think the knots are a good idea. Forces are concentrated in knots, which can provide a convenient place for rope failure.
If you rig the ascenders beforehand, you shouldn't have to worry about dropping one.
If you rig the ascenders beforehand, you shouldn't have to worry about dropping one.
author=dberdinka link=topic=21155.msg90622#msg90622 date=1308165500]
Pierre wrote....."Every year we hear about unroped skiers skiing into crevasses."
Do we hear about this every year? I know the guy died on Rainier (skinning up) but it seems to me that people skiing into crevasses on the way down is a surprising rare to almost non-existent event.
I would say yes, a quick google search for 2011 (once yo...
I have done away with the concept of prussiks. Instead I carry the extra weight of two basic petzl ascenders....and basically use the "cowboy" method. I found I like the use of the cowboy method of getting out of a potential hole.
Pro:
They are faster to set up when you are in the crevasse.
Mucho easier to set up with gloves on.
They can be used in z pulley and c pulley systems--and work MUCH better, especially if you are alone and hauling out a fr...
Pro:
They are faster to set up when you are in the crevasse.
Mucho easier to set up with gloves on.
They can be used in z pulley and c pulley systems--and work MUCH better, especially if you are alone and hauling out a fr...
Another point to consider, particularly this time of year, is that the rope will bite deeply into the lip.
Regardless of whether you have knots or not there is a very significant chance that you will not be able to haul out the victim on the weighted rope due to friction, not to mention the fact the vicitm will get pulled into the lip eventually (I believe there was a fatality in AK resulting from crushing the victim into the snow while attempting to haul them out)
Soluti...
Regardless of whether you have knots or not there is a very significant chance that you will not be able to haul out the victim on the weighted rope due to friction, not to mention the fact the vicitm will get pulled into the lip eventually (I believe there was a fatality in AK resulting from crushing the victim into the snow while attempting to haul them out)
Soluti...
author=TobyT link=topic=21155.msg90597#msg90597 date=1308147992]
Roman, what is your thought process on an unresponsive person in the crevasse?
-Consider this situation,
-You fall in, your partner arrests your fall with the aid of knots. You hit your head on crevasse wall 10' down and are unconscious and stay that way. You are dressed in a light soft shell and become hypothermic. Your partner can't haul you up because there are knot...
author=Pierce link=topic=21155.msg90601#msg90601 date=1308150015]
I guess we can all think of a million hypothetical scenarios and how best to respond to them, and there is no single way to approach each scenario. However, it is interesting to debate the pros and cons of each method...
Sucks about the lady who fell into the "waterfall". Sounds miserable.
That is true, there are many scenarios.
Af...
THANKS FOR THE INFO...By the way coming up from bend, where or how (and easiest way ) to get permits? How much?
author=James Wells link=topic=21155.msg90580#msg90580 date=1308110305]
A possibly mitigating factor - infrequently used prusiks have a tendency to slip down a rope especially if they are not sized correctly with respect to the main rope (the prusiks need to be a little smaller). Knots in the main rope could make it harder to go up but reduce the risk of slipping down.
I have a friend who had his prusiks slip out of control down a pit (in a cave) an...
Sweet -- I love that mod. Shop tinkering is always fun, which is part of why I like the TTS, I think... If I ever find my other ski I'll have to look at some of your changes again...
Anyway, great TR.
Anyway, great TR.
thanks mack, I am just sticking my toe in the trip report world.
jibber, ty too.
Nice pic Mofro! I never saw the bear myself.... but Matt had the same experience as you. The bear just looked at him calmly, then took off up the trail til it scared the shit out of Dan, who thought the sound of the bear was Matt catching up to him on the trail until he looked behind him... and saw the bear.
Marcus... those chain link bindings are bulletproof. I am thinking about s...
jibber, ty too.
Nice pic Mofro! I never saw the bear myself.... but Matt had the same experience as you. The bear just looked at him calmly, then took off up the trail til it scared the shit out of Dan, who thought the sound of the bear was Matt catching up to him on the trail until he looked behind him... and saw the bear.
Marcus... those chain link bindings are bulletproof. I am thinking about s...