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Ok, enough of this boring analysis. Time for some STOKE.

Sam, I rotated your pic.
Fun approach scrumbling.

Pretty lakes.
There were some campers there, must be nice.
Hey, speak of the devil, I layed the tracks down the nisqually chute. If I had my camera I'd post a TR to show it off. It was fun seeing my glowing white tracks in the dirty snow from even the Nisq bridge. I found it to be worth it and a blast, but I do enjoy feeling fatigue. By 7-10 I don't think I'd do it. The hike out isn't too bad. You don't have to go up the scree slopes as many do to regain the main trail. Stay low and look for the visible trail that will gradually regain the trail just a...
Sorry all, I posted some inaccurate information earlier.  The Gervasutti Couloir in question on Mt-Blanc du Tacul was first skied by, who else, Sylvain Saudan.  Edouard Baud was the son of a friend of Saudan's, a Chamonix guide named Anselm Baud.  Somehow these details were confused in my memory.  For more information see here.

 The face of Maude melts out almost completel...
There were a couple of stretches in the middle of the main chute that looked quite thin (snow cover only 15-20 feet wide) - but I was looking at them from across the valley.  They were passable Monday, I'm guessing they might not be passable in a week.  But you'd be able so see that easily before starting up.  I'd probably bring a pair of binoculars (I forgot to do that) so you can check it out closely from below.  Maybe we'll hear from the person who skied it Monday afternoo...
 Just a few old tracks (Snow Troll's from last week?) but no one in sight.


I bet those were Bill F's tracks.
Sounds like we need a little snow replenishment up there.
Here are some photos taken by a climbing buddy of mine.

http://community.webshots.com/user/snoslut
As in not passible sunday the 10th?

But your skins were glopping real bad, right Ron?
(That would do it.)
Yeah, that's the ticket... Right.  I shoulda just pulled my skins; then I'da smoked 'im on the climb. Yeah.  That's what happened.
Good insight, Sky.  
That's an outstanding picture. I'd love to have a copy of that in full resolution. The lone 4:30 skier might have been me or perhaps another solo skier who might have been lurking somewhere I couldn't see, I thought I saw a new extra ascent track as I came down. Looks like myself, the pair, and the maybe mystery skier pretty much all followed same line. An intuitively sensible idea when skiing a glacier even a pretty tame one like the Russell. On ascent, the preceding pair and I were all followi...
muir snowfield coverage is well into mid-summer conditions and its a dry trail all the way to pebble creek. we just worn trail runners to anvil rock, figuring it was faster to carry boots and skis rather than skinning up.

The contiuous snow ends at about the elevation of the pass/col next to Cowlitz Rocks...thats where we shouldered the skis and had to hike till we were on the lower paradise glacier, from there we could skate on the flats till maybe 6300ft.  



...but the entertainment value wained as he lapped all of us with an extra run and climbed the same pitch again the second time before I could make it to the top...


But your skins were glopping real bad, right Ron?
(That would do it.)
I like THIS ONE of you, too, Robman, with the fronts of your skis sticking out in thin air... :)
Nice solo effort, Phil.  I was hoping you could have made it up to Maude, but it sounds like you had a good day nonetheless.  I think the Spur is a fun route.  When I did it eight years ago, it was also quite sloppy (although my skis were only about 62mm underfoot at the time).  You also allude it being windy.  Never have I been more worried about losing my footing due to wind as I was that morning!  I remember thinking that the skis could have actually been pulled...
Thanks Ron, That was the picture I knew you had for the cover!
Yeah, Jer, I hate to rub it in, but you did miss a good one.
Youda loved chasing Joe down this line:

The weather was stellar and the snow conditions were smooth as a gigolo's favorite pickup line.
And speaking of smooth, I though we'd get some entertainment when Joe started "skinnin...
Nice report, Pete.
Sounds like about the some conditions we ran into.
Nice report, Wolfs.
I may have an old Fritschi I (or maybe it's a II) in my junk pile somewhere.  Let me know if you want to try it and I'll see if I can find it.  I suspect the screw pattern will be the same but the levers probably have some differences.
NF Gullies each had a big runnel and two cliffs. Didn't look like there was "much point" to skiing them - they aren't particularly prominent features, really just (currently) undesirable parts of the face they live on (which still looked good and smooth on the looker's left), which shares the upper few hundred feet with Cooper Spur.  Don't think the upper part of the face will last too much longer with these warm temps though.  It was a lot more melted out than in Jeff H's ph...
Cooper Spur is funny that way.  All the 'business' comes in the top several hundred feet, after a little traverse that puts you over some huge exposure.  And Mt Hood sure does throw a lot of rocks.

How did the NF Gullies and the Sunshine Route look Phil?
In spring and summer, the north face of Maude catches sun very early and is subject to rockfall after things warm up. I climbed it many years ago from a camp at Ice Lakes and remember being nervous about rockfall on the climb. For this reason, if you're going to ski it, you should either get a very early start, or climb up a different route and ski down it quickly. The north face is not all that steep, except right near the top, so it seems like one of those descents where blind skiing can be a...
Wolfs, Kudos to you for the report and slugging it out up the Russell. It gets easier every time you do it!
I'm glad somebody did it right ! More pics please!
Huh? What are slides?   8) Just kidding Jes, keep on shootin....Jerry
Sounds fun , looks like I missed a good one! 8)
pete--thanks for the report!  sounds like you and becky had a good time, and were able to avoid the majority of the crowds on your descent.  about how high did you have to climb before you hit snow on your way up to muir (above pebble creek, or higher?)  did you guys ski much below cowlitz after you crossed the scree?  
Phil-

You raise a good point.  Avalanche danger changes everything.  So do objective hazards like seracs.  A hanging serac is the top reason I have read for all the blind drops into Gervasutti.  But people still climb the thing too, I think.  

There are other alternatives.  Particularly for Thermo, I would just climb Liberty Ridge and give it a look.  Like Paul said climbing something is no panacea, but you see and observe a lot.  

I d...

Sky ponders the foolishness on Mt. Maude's North Face (video frame capture)


Further details of the trip:
Who:  Sky, Jason, Josh, Paul, Bill and Sam
6:30am - leave the trailhead for Leroy basin.
Climb the south route via endless scree to the summit of Maude, arriving at 12:30.  Discover millions (seriously, I'm talking millions) of Ladybugs on the summit.  The Ladybugs, forced our retreat and we h...
Call Black Diamond, they'll hook you up for a small fee. I believe you can get the lever for around $33.
Skiing something generally covers a lot more area than climbing it does. You could climb the runnel and find icy nastiness, then ski it and find good corn everwhere else. Or vice versa, climb good snow, then traverse out while skiing, and find miserable snow, fall off, and die.

While it's probably a good idea to climb what you ski, it's certainly no panacea.

Rocks can always be an issue, too, I found a few yesterday.
Nice job guys... wish I could have been there.

To continue ski-mountaineering discussion... what's your opinion on "climb-what-you-ski", pertaining to very objectively hazardous routes?
I guess there aren't too many examples of this, but suppose you were insane, and decided to ski Thermogenesis  ;).  Knowing that it would take you 6 hours to climb, and only 1 hour to descend, and that you were going to be "under the gun", subject to random ice avalanches a...
Well thanks for the kind words Robie.
I really had a great time with all y'all. Everything was fantastic-Skiing, hiking, flowers, waterfalls, company. I enjoyed the Ron J stories and tales of skiing past, Robie's helpfull insights, Dorthea's energy and motivation. All to come back a warm welcoming party at the car. Perfect day-except for the skins being left at home  ???.
I'm grateful that our paths crossed at the trailhead.
No pictures to post since the camera was next to the skin...
Driving on 23 on Thursday I watched as omnious clouds took over the north side I of Adams thinking that it maybe storming and socked in.  However as I rounded the mountain's west side it appeared that the south side was just obscured by the clouds coat tail and actually sunny.  Glad to hear that someone enjoyed those freshies.  In July might I add!
Oh my gawd, what an amazing past three days!! I'm super glad we were able to hook up with you, Chris and Amar. What a great group! My head is dizzy from all the fun.  The skiing yesterday was equally as excellent as Sunday. I plan to post a report with links to tons of photos probably tonight or tommorow, in the meantime here are some of you, Silas:



Still waiting for the Cass-a-mark pictures . . .


They'll come Greg. That roll of slides is finished and will be developed this week. Stay tuned.
Nice job! I wanted to be there but ended up being convinced to go elsewhere. I'm glad someone enjoyed the north side on the beautiful 4th of july weekend. Gawd knows you got the max payoff to effort ratio  8)
Still waiting for the Cass-a-mark pictures . . .
Great photos of the skiing and flowers, Robie, looks like you guys had a pretty fun day ;D. Thanks for sharing.
nice work, Wipe!  It's good to know you took advantage of the weather...
-s
Looks like a great trip!!!!!!!!!!! Way to set the pass ticket record. Can you send me the gps routes of your trip if you have some free time.

Keep'em Turning.
MJ ///oregon.
Thanks Nice report! The combination of wildflowers and creamy snow is good right now.
Just saw the movie and noted it was quite an awesome trip, and my hats are off to you. My thoughts are not presented on this trip specifically, but in general.

If being careful and redundant in your safety skills is dumb, then so be it. Live long and prosper
Warren Miller & earning your turns is for the most part, an oxymoron.  Clearly you don't know the skills, or the conditioning of the individuals you claim are chestbeating to be calling them out like this.  I think that they could certainly gain more attention if they wanted too (but it's not their focus); however, you wouldn't know that.

And, I wouldn't call this an ego trip, but rather an epic one!
I think some people here don't give a shit about the risk factor and would rather spray on the board about what they did do and how crazy they are and warrenmilleresque (aka "Look at me Dad")

There is no way that they will ever catch an edge, hit some blue ice and lose it, or whatever danger lies that is uncontrollable. I think sometimes you should leave you damn ego at the car and just ski for fun, not too say "you did it and barely scraped by".

Just my .02 bu...
I wrote an essay nearly comparable to Sky's in length, if not in quality. You can find it here.

(It's an essay, not a trip report, because the word to photo ratio is far too high. ;) )
Well done marcr!  I end up going solo sometimes. I always see if any pals can go, but if they can't, I ain't sitting on the couch all day! Muir is a good place for this. Many of us have the route memorized, and I avoid avalanche or crevasse areas too this way. But, yep, I've been at work all week seeing blue sky, and it's gonna sock-in Sat./Sun. I'm going to give it a go on Mon. either way. I hope it's clear and can do Nisqually Chute. Carefully going from one Juan  ;) to the next in a...
I'm joining the dialogue a little late, so I'll be brief. 1)Sky, in my opinion your report is one of the better ones you've written. I especially liked how you included a bit of the history of the region. Very cool. 2) To the four of you- Sky, Dave, Phil and Paul- your trip is reminiscent of the great first ascents in the French Alps (minus the huts!). Also very cool. And 3) to all of you who have contributed to the discussion on roped skiing, the quality of thought within your comments reinforc...
Looks like a good time.  Kills me to see all of that snow without a snowboarder around to sweep lines over it.
another great video, looks like a hell of a trip. i'm envious that y'all can take off so many weekdays to pursue these fantastic trips when the weather is at its prime.

Maybe one of these days the weather will be nice on a weekend, or I'll just have to get 'sick' for several days in a row.