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Sounds like a pretty chill trip, at least it's nice weather... if uneventful.
Nice pictures Chris.  I hope you're not including me with R&E's Saturday night antics.
here's my video account of the trip with tunes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XRcj8p1HGU
Sounds mellower than your last jaunt!

Shasta was shoing rocks 1-1/2 months ago; quite the contrast between the far-south Cascades and up here.
what,! no near death experiences! You have recently become the Indiana Jones of ski touring( getting into dificult situations and then escaping them with style) , and I was expecting another adventure. ;)

Thanks for the TR, shame to see the mountain getting out of condition so soon in the year.

Thanks for the report.  It is good to hear about places where the snowpack is behaving more as it is expected too.  It is also nice to read about your take away from the Rainier epic.
I know this is boring and off topic, but just to clarify, air is roughly 20% oxygen and 78% Nitrogen and a few other inert (as far as combustion goes) gases, including CO2.

Nitrogen also does not support combustion either.  Substituting nitrogen for CO2 will not change the combustibility of the mix.  BUT, that can't happen randomly.  If you add lots of CO2, then both O2 and N2 will be reduced, effectively diluted and that could affect combustion (by dilution of the...
author=BigSnow link=topic=10009.msg40548#msg40548 date=1210824671]
A canary would be a much more appropriate test!  They are living organisms!  Still more technology to carry!


Bring on the ultralight carbon fiber backcountry fumarole survival ski canary!

Seriously though, there may be some CO detection materials that one could sensibly carry to indicate the presence of high concentrations of CO. I don't h...
So, getting *way* off topic, but since CO2 does not support combustion and CO burns with a "bright blue flame" (Merck Index), I think that even with something close to normal O2 levels, a flame would do some odd things with significant CO2 or CO?
Yes even in the presence of normal levels of oxygen, gases such as CO and SO2 can be deadly.  Oxygen is only about 20% in our atmosphere, so there is lots of room for the other gases which are poisonous outright.  CO2 at elevated levels can compete for O2 in the blood, but it is the relatively much lower levels of CO that are really deadly.  The reason is that CO binds to the same spot on hemoglobin as does the oxygen (and CO2) but it does so much more tightly than O2 or CO2. ...
Dave - that's Joffre Peak and Aussie Couloir.  I posted a TR about that here.
Whoa, that's beautiful with a nice dust tail in the 5th photo!  What's the mountain in the background with the nice couloirs?
I think the candle test is an indicator or oxygen and CO2 content, but does not help in the case of other pollutants (except highly combustible gases, in which case you may get a different kind of test result).
Kinda felt like we had the place to ourselves.  I guess a crappy forecast keeps out the riff raff.

The north slope down from Heather Pass was an adventure.  Big cliffs back there!
Two comments- first on wands. My BD Revelation pack has some great slots on the waist belt that let you drop in 10-15 wands, and allow easy access on the way up, and a simple place to stash them on the way down. I've done it several times, and it works like a charm. On something as big as the Rainier summit slopes, maybe not extremely helpful however.

Second on toxic atmospheres in the caves- I'd be tempted to test it with a candle flame or stove. If you got a stove burning...
Thanks guys,

It was lovely!

I love my Traubs! Wrestled em a little on the uphill, slipping and learning where the edges and cleats grab best - but I'll be trained in time.



Thanks for the candid story, great writing, great pictures, and  thanks to everyone for their added perspective. jamie
The Birthday is almost always Happy.

Hey Blitz, nice tour.  How are those Trabs working out?
Michael
Well done Alisa , glad you had a great tour. I know you wanted that one!
My roommate brought up a good point which leads to a question I thought may be pertinent on this thread.  Snow machines do have to pay a registration fee (I believe around $80.00??) every year to operate legally.  My question: I'm wondering if any of their registration fees go to NPS, or more specifically to MSH?  If so, then I would be curious as to the percentage.  If not, well, then that's a fun can of worms...
Bunch of bull s. for sure-- human powered permitts costing $ and snow machine transportation free...say what???
Oh boy, that is WAY different than when I skied it in September! Doesn't look scary at all. Shoot, I really need to get up there when there is actually a fat snowpack. Joffre looks so good. Dang.
author=LeeL link=topic=10052.msg40494#msg40494 date=1210702509]
... in pretty good snow





I'd say that looks like an understatement given it's May!  Nice work!
author=acarey link=topic=10040.msg40487#msg40487 date=1210689466]
.... but ... but ... NPS organization philosophy has rapidly been turning to preservation of biodiversity by severely limiting public access for recreation ...


...and yet climbers pay for their permits, while snow machines roam freely without (much) restriction.  A climber would have to pay for the rescue, while a snow machine driver who falls into the crater...
author=OldHouseMan link=topic=10040.msg40477#msg40477 date=1210653323]
MSH National Park is sounding better all the time.


.... but ... but ... NPS organization philosophy has rapidly been turning to preservation of biodiversity by severely limiting public access for recreation ... even MRNP, forced on the NPS by citizens, seems to be downplaying access for expensive visitor centers/bus tours (actually top management doesn't s...
Amar,
I'm really glad you two are back to tell the tale. Thank you for sharing the story and all the information. You were admirably prepared and able. Thanks to other posters, too.

I'm a firm believer in analog non-battery operated compass and altimeter and map, but as one who has been on the receiving end of one rescue on the south side and one seach on the north side of Mt R, I would not dismiss the electronics either. Any port in a storm.

On cellphones...
MSH National Park is sounding better all the time.
I'm going to add my two cents here.  Amar is to be commended  for sharing this tale of his misadventures and self salvation. Nothing new here as I know him as a intrepid ski mountaineer and instructor. Also to be commended is our not so little communinty here at Tay for taking this in and applying Amar's lessons to our future endeavors. Some added all learned!
ps try the ice caves under the Flett some late summer
If the road is gated, how difficult is it to get around the gate?
Here we go again! The Mt st helens Institute and forest service  collective heads are in a cloud.
First no recognition of  the spring skiing season Where skiers wait till weather windows. More importantly there is in most cases at limited entry backcountry areas  some permits reserved for first come first served. ie Lone pine /mt whitney and the Enchantaments.This is a total failure of those entities, the forest service and MT st helens institute to even know the users needs...
author=acarey link=topic=10040.msg40464#msg40464 date=1210631948]
this is all part of the "privatization" movement that has been going on for   while.  The claim is the private sector can do the job easier and more efficiently, the reality is the opposite--more cumbersome and more costly to the gov't, taxpayer, and customer.  Its now in campgrounds, within the Forest Service itself (creating quite a mess and morass to FS employees), and even in...
I just called the St. Helens visitor's center and they said the road was closed at the Couger Sno Park. Is it really plowed all the way up there?
this is all part of the "privatization" movement that has been going on for   while.  The claim is the private sector can do the job easier and more efficiently, the reality is the opposite--more cumbersome and more costly to the gov't, taxpayer, and customer.  Its now in campgrounds, within the Forest Service itself (creating quite a mess and morass to FS employees), and even in your income tax return--you are penalized if you don't file electronically, if you do, you pay a...
We called it "Slow shoeing". Glad to see you had a good time. Lots of leasons learned my first few times out too.

There were a few groups out there last weekend. To minimize the number of TR threads, I will just piggy back off yours.

Since I had to be back in Seattle by 8 pm, we left scenic Lynnwood at 4 am on 5/11 for the 3 hour drive up to Silver Star Creek, 7.5 miles past the Early Winter Spires. Rainer Bergendorf's book lists this as an overnighter with...
So it seemed to me that it wasn't all that unusual that I showed up at Lone Fir and needed to buy a permit the evening before a climb.  Perhaps 24 hours before your climb really means not on the same day as your climb.  There were a few addresses and other bits of personal information stored in the autofill of the browser, so be sure to clear the private data if you do use that computer and care about that sort of thing.

I agree that while some sort of permit and fee sy...
$22 is lame.  What services are being provided for with this money- the parking lot, bathrooms...?  $7 is just for the service fee that goes directly to the ESPN affiliated website!  And snowmobilers can ride up to the summit and not have to pay this amount!
Robert,

Thanks for the info.

I think your reply illustrates something important about conditions and aspect.  I think we had much better snow conditions on the "north" side of the mountain.  Come to think of it, the worst of the slush where we were was on south aspects, and especially on terrain features that were concave and facing south.  Even small features such as tree wells that were concave seemed to focus the solar energy and deepen the slush...
Thanks for the good report, zackalope.

I'm surprised that they let you buy a permit online at the Lone Fir. My understanding of the new rules was that the permit had to be bought online from the MSH Institute at least 24 hours prior to the day of the climb (e.g. by the end of Friday for a Sunday climb). This rule would prevent climbing on short notice, like if the forecast suddenly improves. Specifically, see halfway down on this page,
author=BigSnow link=topic=10039.msg40452#msg40452 date=1210617610]
I can't say that this trip hooked my son on backcountry skiing.  The long road slog up and then out is a detraction in my opinion and I think I will pick a more exciting direct approach trip next time.  Hopefully the weather will be more inviting.


I did Lichtenberg on Saturday via Yodelin which is an approach I really like.  You can park in the Stevens Pa...
author=Stefan link=topic=10026.msg40447#msg40447 date=1210610454]
nice.  i gotta get permission from the mrs. to get the kids out of school for stuff like that.  lucky kid.


I sent Tom's teacher a link to this TR after we got back. (I guess I wrote his report for him. ;) ) She said, "I have to agree that it was a very good idea to take Tom out of school for the day."

A couple of times during the day Tom sa...
nice.  i gotta get permission from the mrs. to get the kids out of school for stuff like that.  lucky kid.
author=Ian link=topic=10034.msg40438#msg40438 date=1210567827]

Sorry no photos, but I'm finally going to get a camera on Friday!


Darn!  Looked up that way on a recent drive to Boise and said to my friends, "I really want to know what it looks like up in there."  Had a great lunch in Baker City in some pizza/sandwich place with red brick walls, a bustling atmos., and good service.
Post any kind o...
Re the steam caves: The National Speleological Society (NSS) is the largest caving organization in the US.  Most NSS activities relate to caves formed in persistent rock such as limestone.  However, the NSS home page has this entry:

http://www.caves.org/io/projects.shtml
{content}
Mount Rainier Steam Caves Project

The project's primary objective is to survey and monitor the caves vicinity the summit of Mount Rainier, Washington. The caves are forme...
Glad to hear that you had an enjoyable trip.  Although the snowpack was "light" this year in the Sierra, you found some great terrain. The Mobil deli is a great place to stop after a spring tour at Tioga.
Wow.  I feel like I just went to a conference on fumaroles!  Thanks!  Anybody think we can get some funding for a summer research trip to Chile?
Ah, the Eastern Sierra in the Spring.  So much fun there oughta be a law; don't tell anyone or there soon will be.  The Tioga Pass Mobil Station is the best backcountry skiing gas station in the world, even if liability made them close access to the massive high trapeze (yes, they used to let customers play on the trapeze) a few years back.  The microbrews on tap, killer fish tacos, outdoor barbecue grills, sand volleyball court and Van Morrison and Dumpstafunk on the speaker...
Wow, nice tracks!  That sounds like a killer tour and some great terrain as well!

As the "wreckers" go, I appreciate the geusture a 100x!  I have a bunch of extra screws and some JB weld, but if it doesn't work, I'll probably do what I should've done a while back...get a real AT setup.  :-[
Yikes...........