6-10 'Extreme' avy hazard this weekend

I'm struck by the apparent similarities between the weather pattern we've been having, the Mt Rainier avalanche last week, and the 1939 avalanche on Mt Baker that killed six members of a Bellingham College party. Here are some notes:

Summit magazine, June 1962

Jun 1962, p. 16: Scott, John D., "Good Mountaineering Judgment"

This article contains facts about the July 22, 1939, avalanche on Mt Baker that killed six members of a Bellingham college climbing party. Weather Bureau reports showed more or less continuous storms over Mt Baker during the first half of July, depositing much new snow. Several days before the climb the weather turned "blazing hot" and continued through the day of the climb. The party got a late start from the Kulshan Cabin vicinity and reached the site of the avalanche during the hottest part of the day.

Here's another article:

Bellingham Herald, July 23, 1989

Barrett, Eldon, "Guide recalls Mt Baker tragedy"

This article includes recollections of Chet Ullin, 72, who was an assistant guide of the 20th annual Western Washington College of Education climb of Mt Baker when twenty-five party members were caught in an avalanche on the Roman Wall. He said the avalanche, on July 22, 1939, was totally unexpected. "The snow felt of the same density as it always has at this point, which has a southwest exposure and lies in the sun all day." Ullin was near the head of the party, half-way up the Roman Wall, when he suddenly felt himself sliding. "Then we were gaining momentum and it was as if we were all riders on a huge sled that had been anchored on a mountain slope by a rope and someone had cut the rope." Every member of the party was caught in the avalanche. Some, like Ullin, were able to swim out of it. Ullin said it was fortunate that the climbers were not roped together or all would have been lost. The avalanche swept down the slope and piled into a crevasse at the bottom. Ullin, who had brought along his summer skis, zipped down the avalanche chute looking for the missing. The survivors found the body of Alice James, 22, before descending the mountain for the night. During a week of searching, the body of Julius Dornblut, 30, was found. Four others, Beulah Lindbergh, 22, Vene Fisher, 25, Hope Weitman, 25, and Maynard Howatt, 22, were never found. Weitman and Howatt were engaged to be married in the fall.

The NWAC special statement was updated at 1001 AM PT.

"Dangerous avalanche conditions are expected at higher elevations in the Olympics and Cascades weekend, particularly on the volcanoes above 8000 ft"

A prior plan for Baker this weekend is toast, currently trying to assess whether moving to (Sunday night and) Monday will give a sufficient improvement in conditions.

Our well intended group planning on Baker this weekend sent EM's around and pretty quickly decided that a ski and summit goal would not be smart. It's kind of dissapointing particularly after reading about Oyvind and crew who pretty much had their way with the hill last weekend. I want to thank Lowell for layerig on his historic perspective which adds a unique and expansive framework to our collective electronic decision making.

Our well intended group planning on Baker this weekend sent EM's around and pretty quickly decided that a ski and summit goal would not be smart. It's kind of dissapointing particularly after reading about Oyvind  and crew who pretty much had their way with the hill last weekend.  I want to thank Lowell for layerig on his historic perspective which adds a unique and expansive framework to our collective electronic decision making.

+1

we were planning baker summit/ski a la Oyvind and have cancelled based on avy forecasts.  Lowell's historic perspective and Cookie's comments sure make the decision easier too.  thanks for the input everyone.

Washington free fishing days is this weekend.

I have a date with a sea kayak, the Possession Sound and the fiancee.   That's the beauty of the PNW!!

Be safe everyone!!