Oct 15, Mt Baker, Park Headwall/Boulder Cleaver
10/15/11
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
13082
19
Yesterday I had the pleasure of many firsts. First time skiing the Boulder Cleaver. First time skiing the Park Headwall. First time skiing with the ever bubbly Jessie Rowe. I like firsts, especially yesterday's.
The approach:
The fixed line (coming off the tree in the center of the photo):
Jessie and I were on a pretty relaxed pace. We'd left Seattle a little after 5 am and had decided to see how things looked once we got to where we could see. Part of the reason I wanted to leave so late was because I wanted to enjoy the approach. More than once we noticed how spectacularly beautiful Washington is. Autumn colors, blue skies, fresh snow, mountains in all directions, not a sole person in sight besides ourselves. I'd have been happy to hang out on the cleaver all day napping in the sun.
We hiked Boulder Ridge until we reached snow at around 5700' but I don't remember the exact elevation. We clipped into (and out of) our skis at the tip of the right most snow finger on Boulder Ridge in the photo below:
The section above the cleaver and below the Park Headwall was completely filled in. I took one dead end tack to the edge of a crevasse but found a way around not far away. The entrance onto the headwall was cake:
Low on the face I had some concern because of the solid ice layer underneath 18+ inches of condensed powder. We kept that in our minds as we climbed but gained confidence in stability the higher we went. I did hand shear and ski pole tests repeatedly but nothing budged. There were a few sections were conditions became quite firm. At which point I asked Jessie how she felt about skiing what we were climbing. Smiling ear to ear she replied "Stoked"! Pretty hard not to fave fun with a partner like that.
We summited around 6 pm to calm and peaceful weather. I unfortunately forgot to charge the battery for the camera I'm borrowing so I couldn't take any action shots of Jessie on the Park. Doesn't really matter though, as the setting sun would have made for terrible light. We managed to find our shoes about the time we needed our headlamps, and began the long deproach with big smiles. Thanks Jessie for the great day.
The approach:
The fixed line (coming off the tree in the center of the photo):
Jessie and I were on a pretty relaxed pace. We'd left Seattle a little after 5 am and had decided to see how things looked once we got to where we could see. Part of the reason I wanted to leave so late was because I wanted to enjoy the approach. More than once we noticed how spectacularly beautiful Washington is. Autumn colors, blue skies, fresh snow, mountains in all directions, not a sole person in sight besides ourselves. I'd have been happy to hang out on the cleaver all day napping in the sun.
We hiked Boulder Ridge until we reached snow at around 5700' but I don't remember the exact elevation. We clipped into (and out of) our skis at the tip of the right most snow finger on Boulder Ridge in the photo below:
The section above the cleaver and below the Park Headwall was completely filled in. I took one dead end tack to the edge of a crevasse but found a way around not far away. The entrance onto the headwall was cake:
Low on the face I had some concern because of the solid ice layer underneath 18+ inches of condensed powder. We kept that in our minds as we climbed but gained confidence in stability the higher we went. I did hand shear and ski pole tests repeatedly but nothing budged. There were a few sections were conditions became quite firm. At which point I asked Jessie how she felt about skiing what we were climbing. Smiling ear to ear she replied "Stoked"! Pretty hard not to fave fun with a partner like that.
We summited around 6 pm to calm and peaceful weather. I unfortunately forgot to charge the battery for the camera I'm borrowing so I couldn't take any action shots of Jessie on the Park. Doesn't really matter though, as the setting sun would have made for terrible light. We managed to find our shoes about the time we needed our headlamps, and began the long deproach with big smiles. Thanks Jessie for the great day.
Awesome that you guys are skiing that already. Looks like a satisfying day in the mountains. First Park headwall mid-oct? Want.
Great work you two! I'm impressed.
We were on the summit from 4:15 until almost 5pm, and none of us ever walked all the way over to the edge to look down the Park Headwall. Too busy celebrating Ben's birthday and taking nude photos, I guess. Would have seen you for sure.
We were on the summit from 4:15 until almost 5pm, and none of us ever walked all the way over to the edge to look down the Park Headwall. Too busy celebrating Ben's birthday and taking nude photos, I guess. Would have seen you for sure.
Hell yeah! Such a cool route; I'm psyched for you both. Strong work, Jessie and Ryan!
I second Amar & Hannah: way to crush it you two. Great summit pic; it looks like it was just a leisurely walk in the park for you guys. I don't see any fatigue on those faces, whatsoever. ;)
Jessie and Ryan. Did not think to look down the Park for tracks yesterday. Good call and strong work. Windy and cold at summit yesterday at 13:30.
Way to style it you two! Not leave the City until 5 am and ski the Park in Oct is pretty smooth.
Beautiful weather, beautiful pictures, and beautiful people!
Jessie, The text messages didn't do this trip justice :-)
Well done you two!
Jessie, The text messages didn't do this trip justice :-)
Well done you two!
Steph: I concur that this trip cannot be done justice for me via words, though if any could come close, Ryan's impeccable report would be the obvious candidate!
Would have been great to have gotten some shots of him skiing down in the sunset, making perfect hop turns and then milking the pow lower down: orange pants, blue jacket, orange hat, and gorgeous sunset... all on a backdrop of white snow, glacial blues, blue mountains in the distance. I feel very fortunate for having had this day and for having ski mountaineering and such gorgeous mountains in my life. It was a visual cornucopia, to be sure.
Also! Ryan is being very, very humble. Our "leisurely pace" is due entirely to my need for better fitness! He broke trail the whole way, shared the most delicious herbal tea I've ever had, and was kind enough to research and suggest what will probably be, for me, a favorite objective to return to, provided conditions. Gentleman, scholar, and manimal, that one!
As for the snowpack: I too, was sketched at times on the thick pow over raincrust... I don't think I can remember the last time I did so many pole-tests. For much of the trip I thought we'd surely need to turn around due to avy conditions, but the mountain kept surprising us the higher up we got, with her apparent openness to be climbed.
Thank you, Ryan, for a wonderful trip.
Would have been great to have gotten some shots of him skiing down in the sunset, making perfect hop turns and then milking the pow lower down: orange pants, blue jacket, orange hat, and gorgeous sunset... all on a backdrop of white snow, glacial blues, blue mountains in the distance. I feel very fortunate for having had this day and for having ski mountaineering and such gorgeous mountains in my life. It was a visual cornucopia, to be sure.
Also! Ryan is being very, very humble. Our "leisurely pace" is due entirely to my need for better fitness! He broke trail the whole way, shared the most delicious herbal tea I've ever had, and was kind enough to research and suggest what will probably be, for me, a favorite objective to return to, provided conditions. Gentleman, scholar, and manimal, that one!
As for the snowpack: I too, was sketched at times on the thick pow over raincrust... I don't think I can remember the last time I did so many pole-tests. For much of the trip I thought we'd surely need to turn around due to avy conditions, but the mountain kept surprising us the higher up we got, with her apparent openness to be climbed.
Thank you, Ryan, for a wonderful trip.
Nicely done Ryan and Jessie! That is my favorite side of the mountain. Glad you had a great trip and superb weather to boot.
author=Amar Andalkar link=topic=21999.msg94116#msg94116 date=1318839092]
Too busy [...] taking nude photos, I guess.
Glad you guys found something worthwhile to occupy your time. It's unfortunate we didn't all converge upon the summit to take part in birthday-suit festivities.
Saturday was an exquisite fall day. Nice to look across the water on my long ride and see Baker in a fresh mantle of snow with many of my friends on her flanks.
@Gregg, please stop talking about freinds on your flanks...it's a disturbing image.
@ Ryan, nice style, though you don't look hungover at all. I had a tough hike of close to four miles, round trip on Sunday. My training is intense.
Mike
@ Ryan, nice style, though you don't look hungover at all. I had a tough hike of close to four miles, round trip on Sunday. My training is intense.
Mike
deeeeee-luxe! way to catch it you guys.
Great! Thanks for sharing.
Way to ski the steeps in October.I get wigged out looking over the Park Headwall from the top because it looks like a cornice from above. Good call in climbing it first.
Awesome work guys!
Ryan I always look forward to your TRs!
Ryan I always look forward to your TRs!
Nice trip!
Very nice!
Awesome! Great approach!
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