Sharpern Edges and wax :::????????? Who

In terms of gliding performance, the scraping and brushing are just as important as the wax. You can often get by with just cleaning the skin glue off and brushing out the old wax if temps haven't changed.

Sure, but sometimes a quick polish with horse hair brush is all I can fit in. If I have time, I start the previous evening and I do a progressively finer polish with different brushes, pads, cork and rags I even structure with a steel brush every once in a while

Cheers
Ivo

If you need major work, I am a big fan of World Cup on the eastside. They are the ski tune nerds and I haven't had a bad tune there ever.

www.worldcupsc.com/

I choose to sharpen when the descent has some pucker factor and wax when the descent/runout is long and flat.

Pollin factor: I'll be bringing some GoopOff into Broken Top this weekend for the nearly flat 4mi contour of sled roads on the way out.

For the average person, you should only go to a ski shop for a tune if you get a core shot to your ski, or the bottoms are trashed and edges are ragged.

Buy a $12. clothing iron at target and some yellow wax at a ski shop (for springtime) Set the iron temperature just below the polyester setting. Hold the wax to the iron and drip some dots of wax up and down the ski. Don't put more wax than you need to get a very thin coverage when spread the dots out with the iron. You are waxed!

Most people scrape it down with a cabinet scraper leaving a thin flat film. Some brush it after scraping to combat the suction effect that wet spring snow has on skis.

It's easy to learn, and not rocket science to wax your own skis. Paying a shop $35. is a waste of money unless your skis are trashed or have a core shot.

Spring snow doesn't need much edge filing since the ski isn't trying to edge against a hard snow surface. Use a single cut fine file to touch up nicks and burrs as they arise and you are good to go.

This time of year you will come back from a tour and sometimes your skis will be loaded up with pollen and pitch from skiing near the trees. This has to be scraped off and then sometimes even wiped off skis with white gas fuel to remove all the dirt before you re-wax. This is why you need to learn to do it yourself, because you can't take your skis to a shop after every tour.

Most times I come home from a tour, give quick scrape, then wax and scrape down that fresh wax, and I am set to go out again when my skins dry. It takes 10 minutes to do...

It takes 10 minutes one beer to do...

I do pretty much the same thing, except I've modified your time estimate to be more akin to my preferred yardstick

Most times I come home from a tour, give quick scrape, then wax and scrape down that fresh wax, and I am set to go out again when my skins dry. It takes 10 minutes to do...

Pretty much, except for leaving out the 30-60 minutes of wait time between the wax and scrape to let the wax completely cool. (Unless you were referring to a "hot scrape" to clean the bases, then carry on.)

A proper spring structure on the base (coarse to very coarse) will do wonders to decrease suction and speed a ski up. A proper structure is not obtained by skiing through bare spots and brush.