Old Analog beacon question

Just some quick thoughts, don't know if this is true or helps...

So what were the lowest distance readings you got before switching to the finest mode? I know with my M2 I don't switch to the finest until the readings are under 3 meters. If you're standing up (1m/poor form), and the beacon is buried 1m, then you may be too far from the buried beacon (2-3m) for the finest setting.

If you're hovering your search beacon at the ground, then it sounds like you probably should be able to get a reading down to 1. - 1.5m, depending on transmitter/beacon orientation.

I'd say try again with the F1, but it's probably time to upgrade.

When I did the fine search I was holding the beacon an inch or two off the snow.  My beacon obviously doesn't have any distance numbers but it was set at one notch above the finest search which is 8-2 meters on the dial.  While conducting the fine search I moved the beacon forward until the signal lessened, then I made a quick line in the snow.  Then I repeated this procedure moving back and then side to side.  When I have done this in the past you are left with a "box" drawn in the snow that is about one foot by  one foot and that is where I would probe.  I refered to this "box" earlier and I think I gave some the impression I was making a box with the the transiever.  Instead I should have called it the grid method, which I believe is more accurate.  The problem was that the signal strength LEDs were topped out even as I moved 4 to 5 feet on the setting 8-2 meters, and when I turned it down to 2-0 (finest setting) it would suddenly act as if there was no signal or it was very very distant.

I forgot the readout was all audio on the F1.

If the transmitting beacon was buried a meter, getting a faint reading in the 2-0m range seems plausible. The tracker may have been dealing with the flux lines better.

Bottom line is if you couldn't hit the strike pad quickly and be ready to dig, then your partners dead.

Pinpoint search should be for the strongest signal on an X and Y axis, while facing uphill. This is exactly why the lowest setting on an analog beacon is so low......

Probe 10-12 inches apart in concentric circles around that point.

Then cut the straps off that F1, write on it clearly with a sharpie "FOR PRACTICE SEARCHES ONLY!" and buy a new beacon in time for your avy 1 course.

Then cut the straps off that F1, write on it clearly with a sharpie "FOR PRACTICE SEARCHES ONLY!" and buy a new beacon in time for your avy 1 course.

Smart thinkin' there.......

Both PNWBrit and snoqpass make good points. But another aspect needs to be examined, TPDazzle: you state that due to time constraints you were frusterated with your gear. In a real emergency when your skiing partner goes down, there will definately be a 'time constraint'! .This is a weakness of only using the 'beacon parks': you get a sound grounding in the mechanical use and deployment of your beacon, which is good. But none of the mental training for remaining cool under duress. One good way to replicate this is to use snoqpass' spare beacon. Put it in a zip-loc and add something valuable to it, like your car keys. As you and your partner climb, toss it over your shoulder. When you get to the top, outline a scenario and most importantly PLAY IT AS REAL AS POSSIBLE. Do everything you can to achieve a stress level. Good luck!