Switchbacks: How do you do 'em?

...  Do you do something different?

Interesting, Lowell.  Thanks for taking the time to post this.

I too, am self taught on this particular maneuver, and interestingly enough, do it exactly the way you describe ... with one exception:  referring to your pictures for reference, at step 4 (snow conditions permitting) I drive the tail of my (left) uphill ski under the right ski under the instep of my right boot, then continue as you describe.

Possibly because I have rather short legs I find this "tail drive" make the weight shift a breeze.  Of course on hard summer snow I'm relegated to your technique exactly.  There's been times when I tried to "dig" the tail under the down hill ski with the inevitable catastrophic results (i.e. sliding down the hill on my belly

Margaret showed us the Downhill-initiated kick turn at the Mounties leader's class she helped teach a few years ago (pg 156 of their book) and I've found it to be very useful on very steep terrain where I wasn't sure I could manage my "standard" move.

Rainer - Thanks for posting.  It's always good to hear from pillars of the PNW bc ski community.  Hope to see more of you here.

Haven't seen the new book, but I too took the ski touring course from Martin and crew a few years back and was taught the technique you describe Lowell. It's not in the book, really? I thought they called what thay taught me an "uphill kick-turn."

I had to add a cheaters section to my uphill kick-turn (lack of flexibility) where I sink the tail of the uphill ski under the downhill ski while moving it through its rotation to the opposite direction. This helps avoid tripping on myself when lifting the downhill ski and gives me support and leverage in planting the first turned ski. It also helps me get the ski around in tight quarters i.e. steep terrain.

Keep the kick-turing ideas coming! I have seen some impressive examples, from Margaret Wheelers fluid motion turns demonstrated in her intro to AT ski touring class, to ronj's freakishly 180 degree opposable knees on a 50 degree slope. Say what? How do you do that?

PS...Rainer what's up man? Why the harsh words? Poor form in my opinion. Check bullet point #1 under "General posting guidelines"

Hi Lowell,

I do the same thing you do, probably 75% of the time. It's great for steep terrain or switchbacks near an obstruction that would prevent a big sweep with the uphill ski. I actually learned it from a friend of mine who did the Haute Route with Martin a couple of years ago. He learned it from Martin on that trip.

I still do a "snap" turn from time to time, which sounds like it's the "uphill initiated" turn you describe. I do that because it's fun, honestly.

To John_Morrow's point -- all of these turns are a lot harder on non-touring tele gear. The "flick" turn would be just about impossible, I think...

Good post -- sorry Rainer's reaction was so harsh right out of the gate.

When this client friend of mine showed it to me I found that my tip plunged and got stuck in the slope when I tried the technique while on telemark gear. Any suggestions?

Much like Lowell I am self taught, long legged and do the exact same technique as Lowell suggests for switches. Both AT and Tele. I have noticed that at times the tip dips and some times I have to use my pole to give the uphill ski a little help to get out of the snow. If I have to use the pole assistance to much I have a method I call a "Swing Kick" As you mentioned John, the disadvantage of the tele is the tension of the spring. Maybe this helps?

When I am in a position like Picture #4 ready to make the transition or shift with the uphill ski. I quickly pull back the uphill leg straight back (not bent) then whip it forward with it bent (like kicking a soccer ball) to bring it parallel with downhill ski. Just like a golf swing-straight arm back cocked wrist and snap on the down swing. It is different action because you are bringing the uphill leg back straightened- then kicking it.
It is a quick action that seems to draw the ski back straight with the tip high and keeps the tip from dipping in deeper snow or when snow sticks to the topsheet.
It works for me and I have shown it to others who have been amazed by the results.

For AT'ers the Naxo system has the double hinge on the binding that creates this whip action. I do not care for the Naxo system, due to excess weight and fitting issues, but that is a nice system feature if you don't mind the excess weight.

Good subject Lowell, I own Martin's book and need to scour it to find some more tips that save energy.
Joe

A question, though, Lowell.  I see how great this technique would be for AT gear since there is no tension or spring to the toe piece.  The tail just immediately hangs.  When this client friend of mine showed it to me I found that my tip plunged and got stuck in the slope when I tried the technique while on telemark gear.  Any suggestions?

The book describes variations for use with feely hinged bindings and for bindings with more limited movement. When you borrow your friend's book you can take a closer look at the latter. It's possible that the book takes the approach it does to more easily cover both of these cases simultaneously. That would make sense to me, but I was curious enough to raise the topic here. The book spends 12+ illustrated pages talking about kick turns, so it's quite thorough.

It occurred to me that this might be one of those fundamental but irreconcilable topics, like whether the toilet paper should roll off the top or the bottom. But isn't it fun and interesting to know this, since switchbacks on skins are such a universal part of the backcountry skiing experience.

Funny, I started reading this post and was wondering if it was going to be like the article on this subject that appeared in Couloir a few years ago: no one kick turns like me. but then Lowell pretty much describes my technique with only one minor difference. When i move the up hill ski I push my foot forward (so the tail goes in front of my other shin) while rotating my ski around to the new direction, then move the poles and rotate the other ski. You quickly learn how far away to plant the poles so that your tips can arc around without hitting them. I can't say its always seamless, but like pulling hide with your skis on, its a good feeling when it flows! For the times I whack a pole or its too steep I think I do a variation on the jambing the tail under the other ski as mentioned by others above.

BTW did someone delete the pictures? I only get the descriptions in my browser.


Well the pix just showed up and I can see how pulling your foot back obviates the need to have the pole waaaay up the hill so the ski tip can swing through, I guess I'll have to try that one out!