2013 Northwest Snow and Avalanche Workshop: Nov. 3

Another take home from the day was that AVI decisions within a group are not the place for democracy, but rather the realm of consensus where all team members have to agree to the mission, and should anyone express some concerns regarding route choice, the no-go option rules.

This is standard practice among climbers as they commonly operate in small teams, but the larger groups seemingly preferred by many skiers often create poor decision protocols.

It was an even greater honor when shared with Silas. We met right here on TAY. We have messaged and talked on the phone but finally met in person on the way up front!
Much like a motto of mine: "It's not the slope you ski but who you get to ski it with."
My confessions: I have a new(ish) car. I'm getting new gear, including boots! I'm not rich enough to ski whenever I want (but WTH I'm old enough to anyway). And I'm seldom out EARLY.......but, I'm usually still out skiing when others are home having dinner!


Yes, Lowell - the point I'll never forget was the comparison to the shuttle disaster.
Thanks Michael for the great event!

Ed

Another take home from the day was that AVI decisions within a group are not the place for democracy, but rather the realm of consensus where all team members have to agree to the mission, and should anyone express some concerns regarding route choice, the no-go option rules.

This is standard practice among climbers as they commonly operate in small teams, but the larger groups seemingly preferred by many skiers often create poor decision protocols.

Charlie/Todd




Take a look at the below Backcountry Communication Protocol.  I have been toying with this for a few years, and last season both Oyvind Henningsen and Lyle Haugsven, two decidedly Norwegian Guide's and educator's, used this with their clients at North Coast Mountain Guide's Avalanche Courses.  The driving principle behind this protocol is to institute the same formal communication protocol that keeps us alive climbing.  After watching Cmmdr. Montgomery's lecture, he too is very used to using a similar protocol in his naval aviation efforts.  Full Discosure:  Cmndr. Montgomery, "Lefty" is a formal avy student of mine and my current go-to ski partner along with our friend Mike Cohen.  We use the protocol in our private outings and it is not clunky, nor does it cut into the ski time.  It basically just keeps us all on the same page, all day.

Cheers,
MJ

BACKCOUNTRY COMMUNICATION PROTOCOL (BCP)

The genesis of the BCP came from belaying my six year old son at the local rock gym.  Within 10 minutes he was dialed in on the Climbers' Verbal Protocol  - " On Belay?  Belay on.  Climbing.  Climb On" , and the foundation of his climbing career is now rooted in critical communication being transmitted quickly and efficiently to avoid accidents.

So why not Backcountry travel having the same sort of Protocol to prompt us to address critical information quickly and with 100% participation by all group members?

The BCP mandates all group members communicate and provide input before any member can proceed.  The goal of the BCP is to make a habit out of good communication as well as to mandate group participation.  It addressed three vital questions:


                                                                   Hazard
What is the current Avalanche Hazard Rating and what is/are the Avalanche Problem(s) of concern?

ALL group members MUST  respond and verbally state the Avalanche Hazard Rating and specific Avalanche Problem(s)


                                                                    Terrain

Is the Terrain appropriate for the Avalanche Hazard?

ALL Group members MUST  verbally agree that the terrain is appropriate to for the Avalanche Hazard and Problem(s) found in the Terrain, that other concerns are identified (cliffs, terrain traps, blind spots, etc.), and that a mitigation strategy is agreed upon by all members prior to entering into the terrain.

If ANY member expresses ANY concern, ALL members MUST  reach a unanimous decision prior to entering the terrain.  If no Unanimous decision can be reached, the group MUST  default to a more conservative terrain option where the BCP must be used again to evaluate the Hazard, Terrain, and Consequences.

                                                                 Consequences

" What are the Consequences to our party if we are involved in an avalanche in this terrain?"

ALL  group members MUST verbally respond and discuss the consequences of a worst-case scenario in the chosen terrain.  There MUST be UNANIMOUS  agreement that the ALL members are aware of the consequences, recognize the risk, and agree to proceed. If there is not UNANIMOUS  consent, the group MUST   default to more conservative terrain option.

This BCP is intended of private parties and not guided groups, but the components of the protocol are still worth mentioning to guided clients for their own educational benefit.

I have used this with my own touring partners, as well as to avalanche course participants I have taught.  It is not cumbersome, takes very little time, and addresses critical concerns to all group members.   Since lack of effective communication is a recurring theme in avalanche accidents, the BCP could make a difference in behavior, which could have a direct correlation in the reduction of avalanche accidents due to communication issues.

MJ




   

Great workshop - I liked the theme of Communication and Decision Making. Having the right process in most situations will lead to a better outcome. Thanks to everyone who helped facilitate the workshop.

MJ, thanks for posting the Backcountry Communication Protocol. I was just working on making one that incorporated all the great ideas from NSAW. It will be useful for everyone in pur group to review the night before (I don't always ski with the same crew) and use as a checklist before we start (and reevaluate as new information is acquired).

We always do a transceiver check before we leave the parking lot or first thing in the morning before starting to ski again, but I would not say we have used a checklist or formal protocol in the past. BCA has this one on their website.

Step 1 - BATTERY Strength and Display Check
Group powers up transceivers checking display and battery strength
Leader transceiver remains Off

Step 2 - SEARCH Mode Check
Group switches to SEARCH mode
Everyone's transceiver should be silent since no one is transmitting
Leader powers up and checks display and battery strength and then transmits
Leader verifies every members' search mode works

Step 3 - TRANSMIT Mode Check
Group Members switch to TRANSMIT and stows their transceivers for travel while the leader switches to SEARCH
Leader moves down trail
Everyone passes by the leader leaving enough distance to verify each signal.
Leader switches to transmit and stows their transceiver for travel

Any improvements?

Jim

Great workshop - I liked the theme of Communication and Decision Making.  Having the right process in most situations will lead to a better outcome.  Thanks to everyone who helped facilitate the workshop.

MJ, thanks for posting the Backcountry Communication Protocol.  I was just working on making one that incorporated all the great ideas from NSAW.  It will be useful for everyone in pur group to review the night before (I don't always ski with the same crew) and use as a checklist before we start (and reevaluate as new information is acquired).

We always do a transceiver check before we leave the parking lot or first thing in the morning before starting to ski again, but I would not say we have used a checklist or formal protocol in the past.  BCA has this one on their website.

Step 1 - BATTERY Strength and Display Check
Group powers up transceivers checking display and battery strength
Leader transceiver remains Off

Step 2 - SEARCH Mode Check
Group switches to SEARCH mode
Everyone's transceiver should be silent since no one is transmitting
Leader powers up and checks display and battery strength and then transmits
Leader verifies every members' search mode works

Step 3 - TRANSMIT Mode Check
Group Members switch to TRANSMIT and stows their transceivers for travel while the leader switches to SEARCH
Leader moves down trail
Everyone passes by the leader leaving enough distance to verify each signal.
Leader switches to transmit and stows their transceiver for travel

Any improvements?

Jim

I think I will leave that to someone that is keen to get into the full details and go through the process step by step explaining the WHY behind each. It is important to know why are you doing each step so that you can better understand the process.

Any takers?

Having the n-1 members of your group find 1 beacon allows for group confirmation of the search functionality of the n-1 beacons. If you're all standing shoulder to shoulder & not getting roughly the same values, you can detect the anomaly & pinpoint the problematic beacon. Having 1 beacon find the n-1 beacons as they pass by confirms the search functionality of the single searching beacon as well as the transmit functionality of the transmitting beacons.

The only deviation I like to make is to have the last member of the party who passes the leader to confirm that the leaders beacon is switched back to (the previously confirmed working) transmit mode. Also, my crew all tends to power on their beacons and check battery strength / display before we do the transmit test of the leaders beacon.