Dynafit Heel Alignment

I'd regard that mount as unacceptable. The heel should drop into alignment with the heel pins.

My first-ever binding mount had one heel that was about half that bad. I walked out of it a few times at DIN 7 on 335 mm boots.

I haven't worked with helicoils in a ski context, but if the hole hasn't been enlarged too much and the helicoil is removable, it may be possible to get inserts in the correct spot. Binding Freedom specs a 0.257" tap drill. Skill is required to prevent the drill bit from following the previous hole. I'd do it with a 1/4" end mill in a drill press or mill, followed by careful tapping.

Have you checked to see if one boot works better than the other? Boots are occasionally wonky.

Unacceptable, but not unheard of in the realm of ski shop mounts.

This is why I will spend 3-5 hours mounting my own bindings.  It's not to save the $50.  It's to prevent the frustration of someone else's mistakes.

I'd recommend deciding whether you'd rather have them mounted 1.5cm forward or back...

Another benefit of doing it yourself: Nobody will care about the quality of the mount more than you.  Wood scraps are cheap -- you can try many times with them before committing to real skis.

If it comes to mounting fore or aft of the initial mount, or if the repaired mount isn't bomber, I'd probably ask the shop for new skis.

The whole point of asking a shop to do the mount on consequential skis is to get better craftsmanship than DIY in less time. It's reasonable that quality shops could charge more for mounting in order to have the requisite time to get it right and to have the financial reserve to make things right if they make an error. The margin is very thin at current prices.

E gad that is poor alignment. I have had a few dyna mounts that I have done that I thought were a disaster, but was able to pull em back into a reasonable alignment.
Maybe the shop or you already did this, but I loosen all the toe piece screws and just drop the very top screw down to stabilize, not completely tighten.
Then I work the other screws down enough to get the boot in the toe pincers. Then check the heal alignment, maybe even force it over a bit if I have to.
Then go back and tighten the rear toe screws to almost tight and a touch of minimal play. Check alignment again. Then work back and forth between the two front screws balancing the drop till they are semi tight. Check alignment of heel. Tightening on one side will pull the alignment over, you will see what I mean. So finishing with a combo of tightening, checking alignment and some pleasant pressure to make it go the right way works for me even with pretty poor initial alignments.
But the real trick is doing this all while my epoxy is drying.
Good luck!

Thanks all. I've used these techniques previously with some luck but with these, no matter how I encourage them, they find their way back with only slight improvement. I found it interesting that only 2 of the 5 toe holes were helicoiled--located diagonal from each other. I appreciate the affirmation regarding the mount. I've been calling BS the whole time and getting push-back. It's good to hear there is some agreement regarding alignment margins of error. ie. there shouldn't be any.

Conveniently, in round 1 they also put 3 extra holes where there shouldn't be any. After three mismounts I'm over it. Unfortunately, the situation is a bit more complicated so there will be some negotiating.

Hey Gorp, maybe you should start telemarking. Looks like your heel wants to break free. You are three steps closer from "freeing the soul".