Tire sizing advice

I'm happy to apply some of what I do for a living. I hope I didn't come off as critical of your concerns.

I'm happy to apply some of what I do for a living.  I hope I didn't come off as critical of your concerns.

Heck no...and never to old to learn something new!

2nd to Jason's comments. 60 series tire lists 753 revolutions per mile and 65 series lists 730, a difference of about 3 percent, or 2 mph at 60. Not a big deal, most speedos are only accurate to within a few percent anyway.

If you're planning to buy any old 17-inch rims with your new car's bolt circle on Craigslist, unless they were used on the same kind of car you now own, note the following:

They need to have the right offset, which is the distance from the rim mounting face to the centerline of the rim. Offset is noted as ET## on a rim, where ## is the offset, in millimeters. (ET is a German initialism for "offset," in case you haven't learned anything useless yet today.)

Rims with the wrong offset may interfere with the brakes (offset too deep) or stick out too far (offset too shallow), may make the tires more prone to rubbing against the body (though less likely if you're going to a shorter tire), and *may* make the car wander a bit and the tires "scrub" during parking maneuvers.

It is not safe to assume that for a given car brand, all wheels of a certain diameter and bolt pattern will have the same offset.

They also need to have the right centerbore, which is the diameter of the big hole in the middle. If it's too small, then the rims may not fit on your car.

The lugnut seats need to have the same seat profile as your lugnuts: some are conical and some are "acorn."

The rims need to have the correct stud hole diameter: some studs are 12mm, some are 14mm, etc.

Woah, a fair bit of info going on since I posted this.

With some indenpendant research I came up with the following:

1 - It will overreport speed by just over 3%, no big deal
2 - Its not going to work as the load rating on my current tires is 102T and the snow tires are 99T. Supposedely you must match or exceed the load rating for the car or its kind of dangerous.

Therefore I will have to put these tires up for sale and get some others. Need rims as well which is a pain.

2010 CRV - 5-114 bolt pattern, with stock wheels and tires which I wouldn't trust past the driveway in snow. I want to carry installed snow tires so I don't have to go back and forth to get them on and off twice a year costing 180/yr*5yrs

I just picked up a set of snowtires and wheels mounted and shipped for $1006 from TireRack.com and so far I'm happy with the service. I could have had them for $200 less but I'm vain and wanted good looking wheels instead of steel wheels. I'd recommend the General Arctic Altimaxes for the best bang for the buck if you aren't too worried about dry road handling. I went down one size on the wheel from what came on my car too because both the wheels and the tires are less expensive and the traction should be better in the snow.

Your other option is to check out some of the online forums and scour Craigslist for a set of stock wheels for you car and then take the tirerack prices on just the tires into your local Discount Tire and ask them to match the price. They'll stick you with the cost of shipping as well but they'll match the price which is fair.