Field repair of pulled bindings

Good stuff, tele.skier 

I would dry mount the binding first and unmount it to remove the volcano'd ski material that rises up when the screw threads into the ski core. Removing the volcanos allows the binding to have a greater area of binding contact under pressure with the ski.

Yes, volcanoing is a bad thing and is the cause of many pullouts.  The same thing can be achieved by tapping with an ABS tap and then by hand using a counterskink bit or large drill bit to create a small countersink.  Using a ABS tap has the added advantage of cutting the treads a bit sharper, which, in theory, should promote more epoxy penetration.

Dynafit's threaded toe plate is a design flaw which can promote volcanoing.  I always drill out the threads.

I've done 30+ Dynafit mounts and none have pulled out.  Knocking on wood.

I've got a semi-snapped REX at home, I'll try to check and see if I can find some metal...

I like Lowell's hose clamp idea.

I think I'll get one or two to carry as a backup to my primary screw hole repair solution, MR GRIP .

(more info on Mr. Grip HERE ).

I've used Mr Grip with great success before to make fast and permanent repairs to stripped and oversized screw holes not only on skis but many other applications as well. It is nothing more that thin metal with perforations on both sides (like a two sided roughing tool for an inner tube repair kit). You cut thin strips (less than 1/8th of an inch wide for binding screw holes) of this material the length of the screw hole (I try to get 3 strips into the screw hole if possible) and stick them down into the screw hole and then reinsert the screws. So along with a Mr Grip strip or two I carry extra screws and a small pair of shears to cut the thin strips of Mr Grip perforated metal and then cut them to the length of the screw hole.

I honestly believe, based on my experiences so far, that the Mr. Grip fix would be almost as fast as the hose clamp, and (of course, if it works) would have the obvious advantage of not going under the base of the ski. I also carry a couple of those huge zip ties (most of you know the ones I’m talking about – the ones the cops use for handcuffs ) which might also be a useful option.

Mr. Grip is available at McClendon's Hardware, Woodinville and I assume their other branches. Big box store employees had never heard of it. McClendons always comes through.
Also, it cuts easily with the scissors on a Leatherman micra. Good weigh-nothing item for the repair kit.

I fall into the prevention camp, and go to great effort to make sure my bindings are well mounted. I am a fan of shoe goo, I have been using it for years, and I think it has three benefits, one it acts as a shock absorber, and two it is very good at sealing the hole, as well as the glue effect. I have never had a screw loosen up so far. I have even had good luck with foam core skies, that had bunged up screw holes. I have been trying some of those binding inserts, to see how they work, so far they have been holding. I did find that if you do not locktite them (which the manufacture recommends), the screws will back out. I plan to add some t nuts, and some of that Mr. Grip to my kit. I just finished a ski trip in BC, and one of the guys we ran into had a brand new ski delaminate, which he was able to fix with a tube of super glue, I carry a tube of that, but more for first aid than ski repair.