Shimming under Dynafit toe piece?

Does anyone have any experience putting a shim under the Dynafit toepiece to decrease/eliminate the binding's ramp angle? My wife is tweaking the fit of her boots/skis and she's done about all she can with bootfitting. The end result is close to perfect for her, but if she needs more we'll have to take it out of the binding.

I'm thinking 3-5 mm HDPE or something like that. Any ideas? Good/bad? We've spoken at length with Jim Mates (Custom Boot) about this, hence this direction...

Marcus - which style base plate does she have? The classic plate only extends about an inch behind the hinge pins, others are longer. Knowing this will effect the solution. Also, does she use the ski crampon slot or could that be eliminated?

When clicked in the boot is suspend by the hinge pins, with the classic base plate only in the lowest tour mode does the boot sole and base plate touch.  One idea would be to put a flat shim of what ever height you want, then file a grove in she boot sole so it doesn't lever on the base plate  [much easier to see with the boot/binding, than explain in words]

If she has the longer base plates, they could be cut down or replaced.
or do I need more coffee....

I'd make sure you're comfortable with the way the heel fixture in the boot works with the pins in the heelpiece. If the change in ramp angle is too drastic, it obviously will perform outside of spec. The design is, however, probably fairly forgiving (no need to shim the toepiece for different _length_ boots), so I bet there's at least a little room to play with things. If you can convince yourself that it will release safely, stay attached when it should, and you think it'll tour well, what else do you need?

Russ, all her setups are comforts, with one exception in a pair of FTs (?) -- the ones with the triangular brown volcano.

I think touring wouldn't be effected, apart from a slight loss in heel height for all the climbing positions.  If she decides it's necessary (we're already making some significant, as yet untested, boot adjustments that might do the trick) then I'll do some tests with a shim on the ski, to see if 3-5 mm effects the performance of the release unit.

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Also, the other suggestions I'd solicit, trumpet, would be good shim materials and/or any issue with slightly longer screws for attachment to the ski.

Hi Marcus,

I shimmed the heel on my Dynafits to increase the ramp angle. A local shop in the "far East" did it for me and it worked great. I bought a cheap plastic cutting board and we used that for the material then used extra long screws to complete the mount. With any (one) shim though--you will change the angle of the pins entering the boot, and with mine I had heel pre-release which I fixed by increasing the DIN. Then it was good. If I was to do it again (I've since removed the shim) I might try shimming the toe and the heel at an angle so that the pins enter the boot same as if they were mounted flat on the ski.

Aaron

Yes, I've done this to partially zero-out the delta to improve fore-aft balance (as is commonly done with alpine downhill race setups). Use LDPE sheets, which you can buy fairly cheaply from smallparts.com in various thicknesses. You'll also need longer screws -- try sourcing from slidewright.com or a friendly shop can order boxes of screws from Salomon. (Better too long than too short, as you can file them down.) Note that although any screw will work for the back four, the front single screw needs to have the reduced head diameter.

Cut the sheets so that they follow the same outline as the toe unit's base plate, and drill the screw holes a bit wider than necessary so that the screws don't end up binding.

The resultant angle isn't different enough to affect release -- note that the TLT Classic/Speed and Comfort toes are identical, yet those bindings have significantly different deltas.