European Ski Laws

I can't comment on the Dolomites, as my touring experience in Italy is limited to a few days around Courmayeur and Gran Paradiso. I'd love to go there, though.

For me, skiing in Europe is as much about the culture as the skiing. I'd recommend learning as much of the local language as you can (if you don't already know it). A little goes a long way; people really appreciate the effort. In the mountains you will find it easy to make friends if you demonstrate a reasonable level of fitness and ski ability. If you are new to an area and have the budget, don't hesitate to hire a guide for a day or two - finding the goods and not dying in the process is very dependent on local knowledge.

I don't specifically know about the legality of skiing (skinning, I presume) within ski area boundaries, but I've seen a lot of people doing it in various parts of Europe. Usually they stick to the perimeters of the established runs or wind through the trees and no one bothers them. Touring is a way of life in Europe and these people don't stick out as kooks. If you are on superlight gear and hauling ass uphill, people will shout encouragement, assuming you are training for some rando event.

Re: the Haute Route, ditto the recommendation to check out the Cosley/Houston site for an overview w. pictures. Most of the best skiing is slightly off the beaten track (maybe a few hundred yards to a valley or two away), and the viability of the trip is very weather dependent, so again it's nice to hang with someone who's been there.

A quad-band GSM cell phone is a must for on-the-fly reservations and weather consultations. The guides live by them, and you can get good reception everywhere. It's nice to pre-load the hut and rescue phone #'s before you go, and turn on international calling or buy a euro SIM card once you get there. My carrier (T-Mobile) requires that you unlock your phone to use a pre-paid SIM, but they will send you instructions on how to do it if you pester them and have been a customer for a certain period of time.

PS Take your boots and one set of ski clothes in your carry-on luggage. It saved our trip last year when British Airways lost our ski bags.

Next time I go, I'll join Austrian Ski Club.  They have a British(?) part of the club.  This will give you insurance for skiing off Piste and discounts at the Mountain Huts.

Like Scotsman said get the maps, they have the routes and phone numbers.  Get a Euro phone there and phone SIM cards for the countries- you can get cell service almost everywhere.  The Swiss maps are the best- big industry there.  Italy and Austria aren't as good; but most every tour ends up by a store, they know who to call, can feed you and most other things you might need.  Don't drink the water, beer and wine are cheaper- the huts will have Mountain Tea- lightly flavored ,melted snow.

Hope this helps and file a good TR on other comments others might need to know.

I second the language suggestion and the Euro area phone idea. Both came in very handy - my halting French opened up a lot of doors with fellow skiers and boarders.

The point about alpine club membership is also worth thinking about. I went with an AAC membership, which included rescue insurance and access to local alpine club rates at the Swiss huts, at least in theory. But that arrangement was not familiar to the hut masters and we had to negotiate a few times. In German. Which I don't speak. Also, its smart to bring Swiss Francs and not Euros to a Swiss Hut. Take my word on that.

I will use an AAC membership if I go again. But an Australian or British Mountaineering Club, or maybe even an Alpine Club of Canada membership may be more familiar and could make things easier.

While we're at it - anyone been to LaGrave? Got suggestions for favorite routes there? How about storm day options at Deux Alpes or Huez?

Also, its smart to bring Swiss Francs and not Euros to a Swiss Hut. Take my word on that.

This is very true. This applies to most of the huts on the Haute Route, even if the names sound French. Hut discounts with club memberships seem to apply only to club-run or affiliated huts, so it is hit-or-miss. If they do apply, AAC or even Mountaineers memberships will sometimes work (at the discretion of the person taking the money).

thanks this is all very helpful.

While we're at it - anyone been to LaGrave? Got suggestions for favorite routes there? How about storm day options at Deux Alpes or Huez?

I worked there for 4 years. You need a few weeks to hit all the classics, Freaux to the bar, La Rama to St Christophe, Pan du Rideau, even the Poly Channelle is amazing when it is powder. La Vaute and the Trifides are the most popular. You can email me for moreinfo if you head over.