Mad_Dog: de-gluing/re-gluing skins

Mad_Dog, I was going to send you an email about this, but then thought why not have it where others can read it too? I remember being told that you have mastered the art of de-gluing/re-gluing skins, and wondered (assuming that is true) if you would be willing to elaborate on your technique? I guess I'm also interested in the question of when to de-glue/re-glue vs. when to simply add more glue without stripping off the old first. Thanks a lot!

I look forward to hearing Mad Dogs technique for de/gluing skins, but here's what I found has worked best so far. I reglue whenever i find the sticking capacity of the skin has been comprimized. If it looks really, really dirty...change it. For degluing the skin, you'll need several strips of an ordinary paper bag and an iron. Cover a portion of the skin (the sticky side) with the paper strip and iron over it on low heat. You may need to adjust the temperature slightly in order to get the glue off effectively...but don't fry your skin!!! Remove the paper slowly and watch the glue come off. You may need several pieces of paper to remove all the glue from one section of the skin. Try to remove all the glue from the skin and then reglue as product directions suggest. That's about it...how do you do it Mad Dog?

Thanks Matt. I remember reading about that method a while ago, but I hadn't ever heard from anyone that it actually works.<br><br>I have had a strange thing happen with the glue on my skins: over the course of using them (presumably as a result of being stuck to themselves), much of the glue on the front half of each skin has transferred itself to the rear half, resulting in lots of little clumps of glue on the rear half and not much glue on the front half. I needed to get the skins into action, so I just put new glue over the whole length and they work fine - for now (they are very clean as I really only use them in winter).<br><br>Does anyone know if this is a bad sign, or a sign of bad gluing? I'm also wondering if I will need to reglue soon just to get all those clumps off and start anew?

Charles,<br>I have 2 pairs of Ascension skins. One utilizes a tail clip and the other pair has no tail clip.<br><br>Last night I noticed the pair without the tailclip had the glue "balling up" on the last 3 inches of the tail piece. This seems to happen every couple years due to the oil from your fingers when you remove the skins. I removed the old glue in that section last night using the brown paper bag and iron technique and applied new "gold label" adhesive from Black Diamond(Ascensions new owner). Today, I used the release paper and ironed the new glue and rolled it with a circular item while warm to create a smooth surface. Works great and they look new. I have used this process over the years and I have been satisfied with the results. A few years ago I did a hut trip with the folks from Couloir magazine and they were all, at that time, using Ascension skins without tail clips. Seemed like a good endorsement at the time.<br><br>I also do kick turns by sliding one ski under the other and the tails on the skins without the clips seems to hold. The only time I have tail holding problems is in wet spring conditions after a few removals.

Charles, just saw the thread on the skin de-gluing, so here is what has worked for me. I know that there are other methods that work for other people, but I have yet to get that paper strip trick to work for me. <br><br>As you know, I use my skins all year long, so first I am careful not to drop them in the dirt etc. I try to pick off any fir needles that might get on them after I get home from a trip. The original glue seems to last a couple of seasons, at least for me. When the skins get to a point where they have trouble sticking to the boards, and the glue is balled up in spots, instead of doing the "ol glue touch-up" I will do the following:<br><br>I am by no means an expert on this, but this method has worked very well for me, is fast, and the finished product looks like it has just come from the factory. Just be careful with the high heat as stated below. <br><br>We all know what a pain it is to try to re-touch our skin glue, or find a reliable source to renew our skins, so I tried something that I thought I would share with you. <br>My skins were in dire need of some fresh glue since they have been used all year long, and have picked up fir needles and dirt. I have a multi purpose heat gun with an attachable scraper nozzle (Wagner model HT1000) with dual temps 750 degrees and 1000 degrees. I laid the skin, glue side up on the workbench, (lined the workbench first with newspaper) clamped the skin down by the rubber on the tip end with a vise. You really only have to clamp one end since you will work from tip to tale. Attached the scraper to the heat gun, turned the heat to 1000 degrees (750 also worked). Be careful with the high temperature as it could delaminate the skin. Starting at the tip end, I stripped the glue from tip to tale with the scraper. It did a beautiful job, taking the glue off right down to the fabric backing on the skin, (about 5 minute’s maximum for stripping). I then applied a small amount (about three brushes) of the Ascension "Gold Label" adhesive for climbing skins, took a heavy duty 3" wide metal putty scraper and spread a very thin layer of the glue down the skin, re-applying a small amount of glue as needed. It was very easy to spread the glue with the scraper, since the skin was still warm. I stripped the other skin while the first skin was drying the 1/2 hour as indicated on the glue directions, then applied a second thin coat of glue on the first skin, letting that dry again the ½ hour as indicated in the directions and applied the last and final 3rd coat. The skins came out beautiful, and stick to the ski very well. If you want to protect the nylon, or mohair from picking up glue while you are working, I would suggest using some painter’s masking tape (blue color) taping close to the edges on the fabric side. The painters masking is low adhesive and will remove easily without leaving any sticky residue on the skin. Allow yourself about 2 ½ to 3 hours time to complete the job. <br><br>Good Luck <br><br>(Probably isn't a very good idea to do this on the kitchen table )<br>

Darn! I always do it on the kitchen island while making Christmas candy. I try to get all my sticky things done at the same time.<br>