TAY 32.7 (2020.66) - Mount Shuksan - Where was this class 3 scramble?

WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
Posted by Brad "ZappoMan" Hefta-Gaub on 6/26/20 10:54am

What an adventure. 5.5 casual hours to get to the base of the pyramid, 20 minutes to get 200ft from the summit, 3 hours to get those last 200ft, 3 hours to get down off the pyramid. 3 hours to get back to car. All in all a pretty epic day.

The snow in the gully was rotten. We got about 200ft from the summit and decided it was too sketch to continue in the snow. We ended up in the rocks climbers left of the gully. That route seemed a little too sketchy in our trail runners. But Colin was comfortable enough to solo up the the rap stations and belay Marshall and me up. Made it to the top the hard way, but we made it up.

The glacier was in great shape, only a couple of small cracks opening up along the regular route, obvious and easy to avoid.

Also - If you're up there and you see a Black Diamond Expedition pole with a PoleClinometer on it somewhere on the lower half of the summit pyramid, that's mine, I'd love to get it back.

Shuksan summit pyramid


Climbing the rocks lookers left of gully.


The snow in the gully was rotten. We moved over to the rocks lookers left of the gully. That was still pretty sketch in our trail runners, but Colin felt comfortable enough to solo up to rap stations and belay Marshall and me up. The climbing wasn't hard, just bad timing on the route.

Made it to the summit!


Summit registry.


There weren't any empty pages in the registry. Added our own. Let's go shred some schmoo gnar!

Colin and Marshall on summit


Perfect weather today. Summit views were amazing!

Colin rapping down.


Rapping down made our descent a little faster, but it still took a while. Mostly because Colin and Marshall giving me lessons on proper rapping technique.

Look ma! We made some squiggly lines!


Sulphide glacier from below the summit pyramid.

You are on a roll!  

Nice to read your TR and photos. My last time on Mount Shuksan was in 1994. It brings back memories.😀

Hey! I'm wondering why y'all didn't head up the SE rib (to climber's right of the gully)? I don't know much about the left side you guys went up, but the right side is definitely fun and recommended 🙂 For next time!

@Alisse - the beta we had, said go up the gully.... it's the easy class 3 way. But we got to a high point in the gully and the snow was rotten and the easiest route to "safety" at that point was to jump on the rocks to the left. But it also seemed pretty sketchy. However it did have rap stations... so we clearly aren't the only ones who've gone that route. Next time, we will consider the SE rib!

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Brad "ZappoMan" Hefta-Gaub
2020-06-26 17:54:08