February 2, 2020, The Snot

2/2/20
1774
11
Posted by toddball on 2/3/20 5:47am
We skied the Snot on purpose!  Some quick notes, if you want to do this route soon:

-Our rappel route was longer than 35m, so we did a single-strand rappel and went back for the rope.  An 80m, or a cordelette to extend the anchor, could work.  If you're not sure if your rope is long enough, mark the middle and belay someone down (and then up again)!  Instead of doing this, I just rapped down to the ends of our rope, then had to climb/hoist myself back up.

-If you want to exit up the shoulder, instead of going all the way to Snow Lake, bring boot crampons and an axe or whippet.  The climb is steep-ish, but more importantly the crust is very slick and hard to kick steps in without crampons.

-It feels like powder skiing if you don't make any turns.  We made turns, though.

Have fun!

Thanks for the beta, but I don't think anyone is going to be doing it soon after that report.
2020-02-14 07:45:10
bigeo
author=bigeo link=topic=42574.msg166663#msg166663 date=1580789653]
Thanks for the beta, but I don't think anyone is going to be doing it soon after that report.


Eh?  On our tour, we had:

1. Dreamy cramponing conditions


2. Low avy hazard


3. Blower powder, with a firm-but-grippy crust underneath


4. Winter Alpine Sports-Training Experience (TM)


I would do it again if I didn't have jury duty tomorrow!
2020-02-17 09:59:42
toddball
Well, now that I've seen the pictures. . .
Did you get any pics looking up towards NY Gulley?
2020-02-17 11:46:25
bigeo
Didn't think to get photos of NY Gully or other routes, unfortunately.  You can get a general idea of how much snow/ice is on that wall in some of the photos here:

https://imgur.com/a/lok30Ok
2020-02-17 22:07:05
toddball
That's helpful. thanks
After this next rain event, it should be primo
2020-02-18 09:45:32
bigeo
author=toddball link=topic=42574.msg166655#msg166655 date=1580766463]
-It feels like powder skiing if you don't make any turns. We made turns, though.


...too funny. Someone should make a meme with these words of wit
2020-02-18 09:49:28
PhilH
Sounds like good times!

I'm guessing you rapped in the tempting eastern most corner of snot? If you rap from the cluster trees about 50 yards west (where there is often a large cornice), a 70m rope gets you into the couloir.
2020-02-18 18:21:24
marshallgeo5
author=marshallgeo5 link=topic=42574.msg166702#msg166702 date=1581057366]
Sounds like good times!

I'm guessing you rapped in the tempting eastern most corner of snot? If you rap from the cluster trees about 50 yards west (where there is often a large cornice), a 70m rope gets you into the couloir.


Yes, we were considering bumping the rope over to those trees to the west.  Good beta, thanks!
2020-02-19 19:07:19
toddball
That's also the “ski in” entrance for extra spice with the right conditions
2020-02-19 22:40:55
kamtron
author=kamtron link=topic=42574.msg166704#msg166704 date=1581101137]
That's also the “ski in” entrance for extra spice with the right conditions


There were old tracks over there, looked a little exciting though.
2020-02-20 10:49:24
toddball
actually you can ski via a 60 degree pitch from the skiers left around the knob just 25m from where you rapped.  At the end you get a nice little drop over a grade 3 ice step!!
2020-02-21 20:15:44
Roger Strong

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2020-02-03 13:47:43