Feb 5, 2012, Mt. Shuksan, summit via White Slamon
2/5/12
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
5209
7
Hoped to attempt a steeper line on Mt. Shuksan's north side but heard discouraging conditions reports from some friends. So we turned instead to that old favorite fish - the White Salmon. Watched another group ascend the BYS couloir to North Face during our ascent out of the creek. Arrived at the summit pyramid smoothly where, due to deplorable refrozen/tracked/runneled snow, we left the skis and continued climbing.
We followed the old boot track up the gully which led R at the top before dead-ending in a dangerous rime and ice gully, stopping some 20' short of the summit. We took a different line and stood on top for a few minutes - Wil's first summit, my second - before beginning the tiring downclimb. During this time we saw another group of two arrive on skis from the Sulfide route and begin their descent from the base of the summit pyramid.
Finally got out of the gully and clicked into skis as the sunset colors were peaking, and donned headlamps as we wrapped back onto the Upper Curits. Looked like a lovely evening in Vancouver, BC. The descent of the WS by headlamp and cloud-filtered moonlight was utterly astounding. From the ridge, down the rolls in the glacier, the forested knob, even the old avalanche debris in the creek - everything was blanketed in consistently soft and creamy boot-top powder. "Epic."
Expected profanity and frustration on the exit skinner followed, and then we had to enlist a Baker emoployee's help to unlock the gate to get our car out of the White Salmon parking lot. We were apparently the fourth such victim so far that night - be warned it is locked at 6pm!

We followed the old boot track up the gully which led R at the top before dead-ending in a dangerous rime and ice gully, stopping some 20' short of the summit. We took a different line and stood on top for a few minutes - Wil's first summit, my second - before beginning the tiring downclimb. During this time we saw another group of two arrive on skis from the Sulfide route and begin their descent from the base of the summit pyramid.
Finally got out of the gully and clicked into skis as the sunset colors were peaking, and donned headlamps as we wrapped back onto the Upper Curits. Looked like a lovely evening in Vancouver, BC. The descent of the WS by headlamp and cloud-filtered moonlight was utterly astounding. From the ridge, down the rolls in the glacier, the forested knob, even the old avalanche debris in the creek - everything was blanketed in consistently soft and creamy boot-top powder. "Epic."
Expected profanity and frustration on the exit skinner followed, and then we had to enlist a Baker emoployee's help to unlock the gate to get our car out of the White Salmon parking lot. We were apparently the fourth such victim so far that night - be warned it is locked at 6pm!

What a great time to be out. First photo might've had you in it, if not for the finite resolution of the camera, as it was taken a bit before the atmosphere went red. Second photo 'cuz it's pretty.
That descent must've been nigh perfect.
That descent must've been nigh perfect.


Cool - we saw your headlamps when we were leaving Heather Meadows around 6pm!
Also saw a light on top of Baker Saturday night for about 15 seconds around 7pm.
Also saw a light on top of Baker Saturday night for about 15 seconds around 7pm.
Sounds like you found some good snow on the white salmon. I was in the group of 3 you saw climbing the BYS, conditions were wind affected for sure on the north face but still fun. Cool to see some headlamps coming down the white salmon while struggling up the skin track. That employee wasn't happy when we asked him to unlock the gate, think he would have left it unlocked until the parking lot was empty.
What and where were the discouraging conditions? considering attempting the NW couloir tomorrow.
Nice sunset shot! I was up with two others on Saturday and that was our boot up the summit pyramid ending in said rime and ice gulley that was a bit bony for sure. We were too short on time to try the left side and had gotten to the highest point we could ski anyhow so we were pleased. Did you make it up the ridge on the left and then across or what?
Yeah Drew! Welcome back.
And nice one Svege....
And nice one Svege....
I started with a group of four up the NW couloir yesterday. Then Dansanity showed up and dragged me up the
North shoulder and down the North Face. Very scary and firm but manageable. Ben from Glacier counted 27 switchbacks from the creek. The skin out was almost as gnarly as the ski.
North shoulder and down the North Face. Very scary and firm but manageable. Ben from Glacier counted 27 switchbacks from the creek. The skin out was almost as gnarly as the ski.
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