Black Diamond O1 Bindings Rebuild?

Hella long-shot I know, but on the off-chance...

Anyone figured-out a reasonable way to rebuild the pivot axle on BD O1 tele bindings? 

I have a newish pair that failed - the flanged end of the axle tube sheared-off.  I also have several older pairs that are getting a bit sloppy and would benefit from a rebuild. 

Guessing it would involve using a drill or ? to remove the axle tubes, custom fabricating new tubes, etc.     

Too bad BD didn't design the bindings to be rebuilt...      I know, they're no longer the "it" binding, and BD is no longer making them, but they've been serving me well, aside from the above issues. Haven't broken any of them outright, unlike some other folks - one advantage to being a smaller dude, I suppose.

I've mounted BD01's before a few times for other skiers, but never rebuilt one. I've skied them. They're worth fixing IMO. I always liked that they had the rubbery shroud on the binding base. I always thought that made their design less prone to icing up on days when that's a problem.


If it's a riveted pivot pin, you may be able to replace the rivet with something on this page linked below. You drill out the rivet and replace it with something I've commonly heard referred to as a "sex bolt".

www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=1dj8xoc

https://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/large/99637a258p2-b01l.png?ver=1374158527

Thanks! I'll give those a look.

If you can find the right diameter barrel, then you can micro adjust the barrel LG by either buying a second pair of female parts, and hacksawing the head off the barrel and threading it onto the Male threads before you assemble the new axle on the binding, OR you can buy a longer length barrel and cut it down.... This way you get a continuous barrel across the length of your new axle  if the binding needs a continuous barrel to work in place of the rivet.... 

there's also shouldered screws for binding barrels too, so there's a good chance if you can find a diameter barrel that works for the axle, then the length should be easily adjusted.

Yeah, both ends need to be female.

Off the top of my head, variables will include: finding a tube with both the correct outside diameter and correct inside threads for the tube's end caps (i.e., the cable anchors); drilling out the old tube without trashing the binding; and whether the tube needs to be flared at the ends after install. On this last question, I need to take a second look at the bindings, including a side that wasn't busted. If the stock tubes were flared, I probably can't replicate that.

Have you called BD? Sometimes you can get through to a person in their shop (or R&D) who takes a special interest in solving your problem--which, after all, has probably come up before. Worth a try.

Mark