DPS Wailer Tour 1 binding mount questions???

I've got a different but somewhat similar shape, lightweight carbon touring ski (G3 Synapse 101) - I found that it was more difficult to drive the tips than any of my other skis - they're mounted on the line (Dynafit).
I found that adjusting forward lean on my boots really helped a lot. Adjusting Ramp angle can help a lot too. So, if still not able to drive the tips hard enough once mounted, you can always try fwd lean and ramp angle. Although you may already have your boots totally dialed in and not want to do any mods there - just a suggestion that worked for me. Keeps the fwd length long for pow as others suggested. I do like the 'listening to you ski" idea - so true.

 
I found that adjusting forward lean on my boots really helped a lot.  Adjusting Ramp angle can help a lot too.  I do like the 'listening to you ski" idea - so true.

My set up is going to be quite different next year for sure.  I'm going from  Automatics mounted with Guardian 16's and a 12 year old Endorphin boot to  a DPS Touring ski, Backland boots and Ion 12's.

The Backland has no adjustment for forward lean.  Only one position but I think its soft enough (100 flex they say) that I can drive them.  Question...as far as adjusting ramp angle.....how would I do that?  I could only guess at this point. 

And all jokes aside ... I'm going to have a real hard "listening" session as well. 

Thanks so much.  There must be thousands of years of combined touring experience on this site...between like 20 guys....

TAY is a great site.  I've gotten so much useful information and reading entertainment here over the years.  I totally appreciate it.  Doug

As far as changing ramp angle, there are two ways to effect this:
1) Inside the boot: adding a heel wedge under your footbed, or to go the 'other' direction, grinding down the heel of the footbed or heel of the footboard. This effectively changes 'anatomic' ramp angle, but also changes how your foot/leg 'sits' in the boot - this is where 'listening' to what your feeling while skiing will help you decide if this is the right way to go. Adding wedges are cheap, easy and reversable if you don't like it. Grinding the footbed is also 'relatively' inexpensive, if you don't like it, you can replace the footbed. If it's an off the shelf Superfeet or similar, if you don't like it, it will only cost you $50-ish to replace. If it's a custom othotic - well that's another story. Grinding the plastic footboard - should be reversable - that is if the boot manufacturer can sell you a replacement.
2) Outside the boot: Shims under toe (or heel) of the binding. I would call G3 if your using their Ion binding (or a ski tech you trust) for their recomendations - they might sell shim packs - not sure.

Personally, I have not changed ramp angles using shims under my bindings, although I'm thinking about it, but don't really want to mess with that now. I've done a ton of 'soft' modifications to my boots over the years (1/2 wedges, 1/4 wedges, foam rubber pads, rubber tapes, footbed grindings) as well as making use of the 'built in' adjustments (adjustable fwd lean, cant adjustments, spoilers, etc). I have never needed to make any 'hard' modifications to my boots (shell grinding, punches, etc). All of the mods and adjustments I've made have been from 'listening' and 'feeling' while skiing and adjusting accordingly - once dialed in, my boots feel great, snug as a glove, no hot spots, nor slop or movement, I can wear them buckled all day long. Ski performance is also enhanced, skis sit flat in my natural stance, etc. Only problem I have (bow legged and duck footed) is that it's hard for me to leave a nice straight skin track - if you see a herringbone skin track - it's probably mine.

I ski Wailer 99 (Hybrids) and have found that +1 is the sweet spot, too.

I ski Wailer 99 (Hybrids) and have found that +1 is the sweet spot, too.

It's Good to know that. Mounting a little forward seems to be the common theme. Thanks for the input.