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Denali- advice & gear sought
- gandrew
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12 years 11 months ago #209183
by gandrew
Denali- advice & gear sought was created by gandrew
We are climbing the W. Buttress with the W. Rib cutoff this spring.
1) What's the best combination of tents for a 3 person team? (We'd like to have some small back up in case AMS or other strikes and 2 continue while 1 person waits)
2) Do many people build Igloos or Snow Caves as a usual part of their shelter system on Denali? (e.g. to reduce weight with tents)
3) We are looking to buy a 3 or 4 person Mountaineering Tent and 2 high altitude expedition stoves (MSR?). Have one for sale?
Thank you for your help!
Andy
1) What's the best combination of tents for a 3 person team? (We'd like to have some small back up in case AMS or other strikes and 2 continue while 1 person waits)
2) Do many people build Igloos or Snow Caves as a usual part of their shelter system on Denali? (e.g. to reduce weight with tents)
3) We are looking to buy a 3 or 4 person Mountaineering Tent and 2 high altitude expedition stoves (MSR?). Have one for sale?
Thank you for your help!
Andy
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- Scotsman
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12 years 11 months ago - 12 years 11 months ago #209185
by Scotsman
Replied by Scotsman on topic Re: Denali- advice & gear sought
1) we used North Face VE25's ( two people per tent)but that was over 10 years ago. Quite a few people in other groups got AMS and were quickly taken down to lower altitudes as fast as possible. Even mild cases can be serious.
I developed Cheyne Stokes breathing and didn't sleep for three days straight. I recovered and made it up. 15 days up, 2 down.
We had a tarp tent ( pyramid shape)which we set up for the kitchen with excavated snow benches and one of the guides( old grizzly bastard) slept in that but he was half-yak, half man.
2) only igloo I saw was at 14k camp being used as a kitchen. There was supposed to be an emergency snowcave at 17k but I never saw it .
Most people use the existing camp sites that have snow walls already built as they take a lot of work to build and are absolutely necessary. Lot of the snow was very hard and icy. That was on W.Butt and I don''t know about West Rib cutoff.
I had a -40 bag and used an air mattress as well as a foam pad under that. Jeez, it was cold at times. I remember being scared to take my mitts off to undo my zipper and have a pee. We experienced -35 temps.
Good luck..prepare to have your minds blow, experience scary cold and do the hardest physical work you will probably do in your lifetime.
I developed Cheyne Stokes breathing and didn't sleep for three days straight. I recovered and made it up. 15 days up, 2 down.
We had a tarp tent ( pyramid shape)which we set up for the kitchen with excavated snow benches and one of the guides( old grizzly bastard) slept in that but he was half-yak, half man.
2) only igloo I saw was at 14k camp being used as a kitchen. There was supposed to be an emergency snowcave at 17k but I never saw it .
Most people use the existing camp sites that have snow walls already built as they take a lot of work to build and are absolutely necessary. Lot of the snow was very hard and icy. That was on W.Butt and I don''t know about West Rib cutoff.
I had a -40 bag and used an air mattress as well as a foam pad under that. Jeez, it was cold at times. I remember being scared to take my mitts off to undo my zipper and have a pee. We experienced -35 temps.
Good luck..prepare to have your minds blow, experience scary cold and do the hardest physical work you will probably do in your lifetime.
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- Pete A
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12 years 10 months ago - 12 years 10 months ago #209300
by Pete A
Replied by Pete A on topic Re: Denali- advice & gear sought
1) my party used a North Face Ambition 35 and a Mountain Hardwear Trango 3...but that was 10 years ago and there may be better/lighter options nowadays...though I wouldn't take a single wall tent, as I don't think they provide nearly the warmth a double wall provides. We also carried a megamid as our cook tent...it was a great place to hang out and with 2 stoves running in it and a ton of people sitting around inside it was pretty warm (and it was usually full of visitors wanting to cook somewhere other than their vestibules).
2) We built an igloo at 14,000ft and I slept in it for nearly a week...we built it so we'd have a back-up structure for a team member to stay in, but I slept in it to give my partners a little more space in the tents. It wasn't exactly warm, but I was fine with a -40 bag and my parka at night. As it turned out, when we went for the summit, we did leave a partner behind but we ganged together with another group and left one of our tents back with our buddy who couldn't make it any higher.
We had to put in our own camps the entire way up, but that was mid-May right at the start of the climbing season...on the way back down many more parties had arrived and there were a lot more empty sites that parties could move in to.
One bit of advice re- stoves....you might want to consider experimenting with a pressure cooker. We carried a small (2-3 liter) capacity one up to 14k camp and it was great for cooking. The cold temps and lowered boiling temps due to altitude really make cooking times frustratingly long, but with a pressure cooker we could get our meals cooked in a fraction of the time, eat things other than freeze-dried meals, and used less fuel too.
Best of luck! Most rewarding, toughest three weeks I've spent in the mountains.
2) We built an igloo at 14,000ft and I slept in it for nearly a week...we built it so we'd have a back-up structure for a team member to stay in, but I slept in it to give my partners a little more space in the tents. It wasn't exactly warm, but I was fine with a -40 bag and my parka at night. As it turned out, when we went for the summit, we did leave a partner behind but we ganged together with another group and left one of our tents back with our buddy who couldn't make it any higher.
We had to put in our own camps the entire way up, but that was mid-May right at the start of the climbing season...on the way back down many more parties had arrived and there were a lot more empty sites that parties could move in to.
One bit of advice re- stoves....you might want to consider experimenting with a pressure cooker. We carried a small (2-3 liter) capacity one up to 14k camp and it was great for cooking. The cold temps and lowered boiling temps due to altitude really make cooking times frustratingly long, but with a pressure cooker we could get our meals cooked in a fraction of the time, eat things other than freeze-dried meals, and used less fuel too.
Best of luck! Most rewarding, toughest three weeks I've spent in the mountains.
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