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alternative ice pro, or garbo?
- alecapone
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14 years 7 months ago #201256
by alecapone
alternative ice pro, or garbo? was created by alecapone
Cleaning the garage and I found these pieces of fall protection from my construction days. debating if they have any use...
Same diameter as an ice screw. designed for a much heavier load, but with differant dynamics. weight is somewhere in between a real screw and the throw away bail out screws.
my thoughts of usefullness would be towards emergancy use as they would probably be hard to clean(remove)., but could posibly provide a more solid hold?
thoughts?
Same diameter as an ice screw. designed for a much heavier load, but with differant dynamics. weight is somewhere in between a real screw and the throw away bail out screws.
my thoughts of usefullness would be towards emergancy use as they would probably be hard to clean(remove)., but could posibly provide a more solid hold?
thoughts?
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- Pete A
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14 years 7 months ago #201257
by Pete A
Replied by Pete A on topic Re: alternative ice pro, or garbo?
interesting! seems like a puzzle for Mythbusters....
at least when those concrete anchors are new, they're pricey little suckers.... i wonder if you could craigslist them and pick up a few bail screws instead.
i could imagine the concrete anchor would dig into the ice under load enough that cleaning could be really tough... would be interesting to test one of those with a backup in place.... my worry would be that a screw distributes its load over a larger surface area if all the threads are engaged into the ice, while a concrete anchor would concentrate the load to a much smaller area (though it seems unlikely it could pull completely out if buried to the hilt in ice.
at least when those concrete anchors are new, they're pricey little suckers.... i wonder if you could craigslist them and pick up a few bail screws instead.
i could imagine the concrete anchor would dig into the ice under load enough that cleaning could be really tough... would be interesting to test one of those with a backup in place.... my worry would be that a screw distributes its load over a larger surface area if all the threads are engaged into the ice, while a concrete anchor would concentrate the load to a much smaller area (though it seems unlikely it could pull completely out if buried to the hilt in ice.
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- Lowell_Skoog
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14 years 7 months ago #201259
by Lowell_Skoog
Replied by Lowell_Skoog on topic Re: alternative ice pro, or garbo?
I would stick with V-Threads. Cheaper and much stronger:
alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2010/01/how...read-ice-anchor.html
alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/2010/01/how...read-ice-anchor.html
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- T. Eastman
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14 years 7 months ago #201269
by T. Eastman
Replied by T. Eastman on topic Re: alternative ice pro, or garbo?
Are you nuts? The comments are way to polite. Don't even think of using those things in ice.
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- samthaman
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14 years 7 months ago #201278
by samthaman
seriously, that seems so sketchy. You'd be putting a massive outward force on the ice from the inside. I'm picturing a "cam behind a flake" type effect.
If they made a smaller version, it seems like it would be a cool way to use old bolt holes for protection.
Replied by samthaman on topic Re: alternative ice pro, or garbo?
Are you nuts? The comments are way to polite. Don't even think of using those things in ice.
seriously, that seems so sketchy. You'd be putting a massive outward force on the ice from the inside. I'm picturing a "cam behind a flake" type effect.
If they made a smaller version, it seems like it would be a cool way to use old bolt holes for protection.
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- blitz
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14 years 7 months ago #201281
by blitz
Replied by blitz on topic Re: alternative ice pro, or garbo?
Lowell - regarding the V-threads:
I am not an ice climber - but I've built some rock anchors in my day. That "V-thread" looks REALLY scary to me.
Please explain why you trust that, do you make a few and then equalize them?
I am not an ice climber - but I've built some rock anchors in my day. That "V-thread" looks REALLY scary to me.
Please explain why you trust that, do you make a few and then equalize them?
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