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BD adjustable tip loop
- Joedabaker
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I just ran across this today and really think this is a nifty idea.
BD Adjustable tip Loops
I have a couple skis that are nearly the same length, but the tips are different configurations and I often kick the tip loop off when flailing around.
The added bonus is that you can eliminate weight and snow packing under the skin because the skin is flush to the ski base.
The metal protector on the sides help to eliminate the wire getting cut on the loop so I'm not giving myself acupuncture when I wrap my skins up.
Great out of the box thinking.
I think that the remote possible disadvantage could be, what if the skin detaches from the loop attachment in the field or if the cap that houses the loop adjustment gets fatigued and loses it's ability to hold in place?
I think they could integrate a bungee or rubber piece on the plastic piece and put a tab on the top of the tip loop, so you can have the ability to remove your skins from the tip.
Also, I watched the video on BDEL.com on their method to cut skins, learned a couple ideas.
They show how to attach the new tip loop on the video.
Personally, I like a couple mm of ski base showing on my skis when I cut my skins. My experience in the past with skins cut to tight so just the edge shows is OK for powder skinning, but lacks the edge bite necessary when the slope gets steep and the snow is firm. The slight disadvantage of a more trim skin is that occasionally I get back slip on some steeper sections of slick ice skintracks or super firm/part icy side hill conditions. I rarely have to use ski crampons. But I will take that to get better glide and a little better edge rather than enduring a day of Skin Out where the skin is so close to the edge it is riding on the skin plush rather than the ski edge when sidehilling.
What are your thoughts?
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- climberdave
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As far as the trimming of skins is concerned - I'm in the wall-to-wall camp and only want edges showing when traveling up hill. My predilection is based on the fact that I have trimmed skins off by a few mm before and when the skinning gets hard, the exposed base will sometimes allow the ski to "shoot" backwards when weighted - usually at the worst time! I know the technique has a hand in my dilemma, but I need all the help I can get
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- Marcus
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As for trimming -- I go for about an edge-width of base showing and that's it. I get much more slipping around on steep skin tracks if I have more base "out". An edge-width seems to be enough for the skin to clear the edge for biting into ice, yet retain grippiness.
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- Charlie Hagedorn
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- gregL
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Wall-to-wall for me means leaving about 1 to 1.5mm (less than and edge width) of base visible on each side with standard Ascension skins. You could go closer with thinner skin material, like Colltex Special.
Beyond that it's technique (weighting the heel, rolling your ankles, proper use of lifters).
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- Joedabaker
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Good point on the technique.Yeah, it seems like a good idea. Is this the default tip hardware BD ships with Ascension skins
Wall-to-wall for me means leaving about 1 to 1.5mm (less than and edge width) of base visible on each side with standard Ascension skins. You could go closer with thinner skin material, like Colltex Special.
Beyond that it's technique (weighting the heel, rolling your ankles, proper use of lifters).
I have a friend who needs to get skins and learn to use them. I think initially, I'll cut his skins with the edge showing and as he progresses in technique cut them further if he wants.
I got tired of the edge not holding on slopes and was to cheap to buy extra skins for a few mm of base showing. It has improved my techniques, but I do end up on my face occasionally.
The real plus it showed me the advantages of a lower angle uptracks to save energy and decrease biomechanical injuries over the long haul.
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