Fritschi Freeride issues

The din has to be set at the front AND THE BACK of the binding and the height has to be set too.

I destroyed a pair of bindings by not setting them right a couple seasons ago (I thought my lousy skiing was because I was getting old). Eric at Marmot and schooled me on this last summer when I bought the new bindings and now I can change boots when ever I want.

You might want to have a good ski technician look at them with you.

Hi I have experienced this phenom with my wife's Fritschis. In her case it's due to the size of the boot sole, she is a Garmont Sheride sole size 270mm. This is what happens. When she starts to step in to the binding the treadle pedal for the brake starts to rotate forward unfortunately the treadle moves forward as it rotates and slips off the front of the heel block of the boot before it can retract the brake and hangs up there jamming the entry into the binding, it's a total piss off. Basically the small garmont boots are incompatible with the Fritchi brakes, that being said here is what I did to McQiver it. I got some old vibram hiking boot soles and cut a piece of rubber thick enough to fill the instep void in essence lengthening the heel block by an inch and a quarter then I barge cemented it in place. Now the brake pedal slides along the extended heel block and she can step right in. Works like a charm now and the wife is a happy camper and we all know how important that is!

Hmmm a wife problem ?
don't think so. Iv'e set up a few std fritschis and my 4 sets of shortened fritschis. Try setting bindings in std . position for toe height and length of sole. If you still get a lame closing of the heel try adjusting the heel back a tad. That has always worked for me. On my shortened versions where the markings have no meaning I aim for 1/4 " . This is not to say there can't be lug problems. I use a std business card for for the toeheight feeler gage. Of course do all this at your own risk.