Idea for pollen on skis

Tokogirl:  Yes, when I hot wax, I scrape and brush.  (I've been doing this for awhile.  Was a nordic waxing nerd back in the 1970's, pre-skating "wax to win" days.)  I'm making an exception for the Spring Solution, as noted above and in my separate thread.

I'd been using #10 Swix the last few weeks and getting horrible pollen build-up everywhere from Alpental to Baker, TOKO grip-n-glide was fairing no better, though I wasn't using a copper brush after applying it.

Yep!  the rub on waxes will pick up all the gunk because they lay on the surface or there is enough residue.  Maxiglide, F4, Maxwax, Grip-n-Glide, etc.

Tokogirl:  Yes, when I hot wax, I scrape and brush.   (I've been doing this for awhile.  Was a nordic waxing nerd back in the 1970's, pre-skating "wax to win" days.)  I'm making an exception for the Spring Solution, as noted above and in my separate thread.

Took me a bit longer to reply so didn't see that one.  Just mention the scrapping/brushing, in general, as I find it is easy to leave a bit on and things get gunked.

Heck, glad the Spring Solution works.  Do you know what the composition of it is?  I'll check it out online when I get a chance.

I've been using the Toko LF (low fluoro) Moly when I get into more tree skiing.  I do carry some wax cleaner and a scraper for nasty conditions.  The Moly has great anti-static, dirt, and water repellency.

Hertel claims that SS has fluoro content, but it's too cheap to have much fluoro content.

Tree skiing without the pollen is a distinct issue.   I've skied for years with standard hot wax (i.e., scrape and brush) technique with warm and cold waxes, but the pollen nonetheless accumulates and the skins don't stick unless I scrape like mad and/or use some solvent and then air dry.  Note that the SS does pick up pollen, but it seems to glide somewhat better when pollen-fouled than other pollen-fouled wax.  Again, my experience with SS continues.

I will add:  Sticking skins to pollen-fouled bases is yet another matter.  Old strap-on skins would work, of course.  Clip Fix skins and Voile straps work pretty well even when the skins glue is not working.

Interesting comments and experiences.

I have done a lot of ski prep with my son's race skis and the pros actually recommend a brass or steel brush to get the thinnest of wax layers. I am aware that many use a steel brush to "clean" their skis, but if the pros do it then I think there is some validity. I personally use a brass brush, but it can take quite a lot of elbow grease even with that brush to achieve the desired results.

I have never subscribed to what I believe is pseudo science regarding the time given to wax sitting on the base for penetration. Once the liquid solidifies it is done. A solid is not going to move anywhere, its just plain physics. If the ski is heated so high as to take a half hour for the wax to solidify, then the ski was made too hot to begin with.

Some will soak skis in molten wax for days to get penetration. Wow! I would like to see real data to support that one!

The solvent based liquid waxes are true waxes, just liquified with the solvent. These are pretty low viscosity (I believe lower even than hot waxes) and this is more critical to ptex penetration than anything else. I have had real good results with this, in fact have gotten a more durable wax job (i.e. less graying of the base over time) than with many hot waxes.

Some of the other products are not really waxes but just silicone oils or the like. These would surely mess with the skin glues.

Haven't really seen any comment on carrying the brass or steel brush on a trip. I believe that this would be far superior to any scraper, at least on textured bases.

Alan

Here is the wax absorption chart. I also have a chart for a hot box application vs. hot iron absorption.
The ski pores are like pores of your skin. The molten wax is a barrier while you heat up the ski base with the iron. The pores, or spaces in the material, stay open and absorb more wax on a descending time line. The longer you can allow the pores to remain open the more wax will penetrate deeper in the base. Molecular size of the warm waxes is smaller and the size will increase with the hardness of the wax thus warm waxes penetrate deeper.

Anyhow, hope this helps.

Brushes: I recommend softer brass, cooper, or stiffer nylon brushes as they do not create micro hairs on the ski bases which will slow the ski.