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No Snow Here, but there's snow there...

  • Scotsman
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17 years 2 months ago - 17 years 2 months ago #184366 by Scotsman
Replied by Scotsman on topic Re: No Snow Here, but there's snow there...
I believe Joe Brown, Doug Scott AND Chris Bonnington are all alive although getting on in years.
Haston died in an avalanche.
Don Whillans died of a heart attack in his bed.

The Internation School of Mountaineering in Leysin was started by the American John Harlin who died on the winter ascent of the Eiger direct when a rope broke while he was jumaring. Haston completed the climb with a German team and then became the head of the Climbing School in Leysin.
Haston was not a good businessman but the "Club Vagabond" in Leysin became a place of debauchery at it's finest headed up by Haston and his disciples.

Harlin's son, John Harlin III is an accomplished climber and BC skier and was the editor of the annual American Alpine Journal.

Two great books about these two are:
Dougal Haston, The Philosophy of Risk by Jeff Connor
and
The Villain, a portrait of Don Whillans by Jim Perrin.

Great books about two of the most iconic figures of alpine climbing and mountaineering and both Grade A psychopaths.

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  • skifish
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17 years 2 months ago #184375 by skifish
Replied by skifish on topic Re: No Snow Here, but there's snow there...
Thanks for the correction Scotsman, I guess I just assumed...

I also Recommend "Straight Up" a great biography of John Harlin II by James Ramsay Ullman

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  • Keith_Henson
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17 years 2 months ago - 17 years 2 months ago #184376 by Keith_Henson
Replied by Keith_Henson on topic Re: No Snow Here, but there's snow there...
This discussion of Harlin is topical in that Harlin's afore mentioned son has published a new book about his father entitled, The Eiger Obsession and a review is found here , an excerpt is found in Outside Magazine and more info at Harlin's website .

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  • NickD
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17 years 2 months ago #184383 by NickD
The soon to arrive IMAX movie The Alps covers J Harlin III's return to the Eiger to replay Dad's route . The neat trailer can be seen here:


About 10 years ago Doug Scott did a presentation at Sea Mountaineers. I thought it was the best slide show/talk I ever saw due to the content covered. Anyone else remember that evening?

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