Advise needed on binding mount

I'm with Rickster and Greg but i will add one more important fact. Use a center punch! Even the sharpest drills have a tendacy to wander off at the start. The toe piece on dynafit is critical to centering the heel of the boot. The center punch aids in keeping the toe piece where you want it.
My two cents on forward vs.aft mounting. I favor making errors or judgement calls if any, to the forward. I purposely mount mine 1 cm forward to get quick turn initiation. Of course this is on a std ski. (God knows what one might do on a Pontoon?)

Use a center punch!

Not only a center punch, but make a starter mark with something even sharper (I use an ice pick), especially if you're using a paper/plastic template. The center punch can drift a tiny bit at the moment of impact on a hard topsheet and the ice pick hole stabilizes it. (If you're lucky enough to have a factory jig, like Rickster, all the marks are made simultaneously). Another detail that almost all shops fail to do is countersink the topsheet to the depth of the plastic so when you screw in the screws they don't pull up the topsheet and lift the binding. Also highly recommend getting the proper Wintersteiger 3.6 or 4.1 mm bits (larger for metal topsheets) and tapping them with the appropriate tap. Try www.tognar.com for the bits and tap.

Follow Lou's step-by-step directions (especially the part about mounting the toe first and putting in one screw at a time while continuing to check the heel alignment) and you should do fine.

Try mounting toes-over-tips so you can hang ten. I don't think anyone is doing that yet.

Steadyski

I think were all kind of saying the same things and the Manufacturer mounting location isn't a bad place to be. I mounted the same bindings at 4 different places on same ski and ended up where I started- the recommended location.

Like Greg said- you probably need some tools: template, drills, tap and correct glue. I have the jig; but still do a sanity check everytime I mount- mark the skis a few places as to where the binding should go. I have a Sharpy ($2), Automatic punch ($15) to start, small drill ($1), Jig ($200?), Correct Ski Screw Drill ($15), Correct Ski Screw Tap ($15), handle for Tap ($10), and then the ski binding glue ($5). So you can see it adds up.

How many times are you going to do it, is it profitable or just part of the science and art of ski maintenance. You don't have to use all the fancy tools- it just makes it easier and does a better(?) job. I used a hand drill once and it worked out.

Just go slow, check everything several times and I suggest to test your skills on a 2x4- maybe you have an old ski the fiddle with. It's not that hard; but easy to make mistakes. Even if it is off a little you'll hardly notice it- mostly you'll know it.

After you get done let us know how it worked out- it still takes some thought with all the tools, just go slow- unless you don't have your turns in for the month.