Jerm, the templates at Wildsnow work fine, and the heelpiece holes are actually more accurate then the old factory templates (too bad they don't supply them anymore, but it's probably a liability-related move). The clear plastic ones are nice because you can spot your toe of boot mark and center line through the template; you might ask at a shop to see if they have any lying around.
Make sure you have scaling turned off on your printer when you print the paper ones out, or they probably won't print right on 8 1/2 x 11 paper, and check against the bottom of the binding just to make sure.
The main advantage with a real jig is that you make all the marks simultaneously, so there's no chance for "drift." If you tape the template down, though, and use something really sharp to make a "guide" hole (I use an icepick) before you whack it with a centerpunch, you minimize the chance of this happening.
Read Lou Dawson's instructions thoroughly before you start; the part about installing the toes first and checking alignment as you tighten it one screw at a time is critical. Even with a jig, the alignment of the heel at the heelpiece is not a gimmee, due to slight variations in drilling the holes, putting in the screws, and factory installation of the Dynafittings in the boots. If your toepiece alignment is "tricky" you will have to unscrew them one at a time to put in the epoxy if you use it.
No one seems to mention it, but I recommend countersinking the screw holes to the level of the plastic topsheet so it won't pull up and raise the level of your bindings - also the 3.6mm/4.1mm bits and tap from Wintersteiger (Tognar.com) are well worth it if you don't already have them.
Edited to add: It just occurred to me that you could print them out on inkjet transparency film (kind of expensive, about $10 for a box of 25 sheets) and have clear versions of the Wildsnow.com templates.
