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Absolute Minimum Crevasse Rescue Setup?
- Jonathan_S.
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18 years 7 months ago #178417
by Jonathan_S.
Absolute Minimum Crevasse Rescue Setup? was created by Jonathan_S.
Posted here:
picasaweb.google.com/jshefftz/LightweightZDrag
...is my version of a very lightweight crevasse rescue setup with the absolute minimum amount of gear. Captions provide explanations and caveats.
My goal is a setup that can rescue a skier who has been unroped but is wearing a harness. I’ve had a reasonable amount of training (from Chauvin Guides, NH AMC, and my ski patrol) for crevasse rescue and hauling systems in general, but the assumption for that training has always been that everyone has *lots* of gear (either as part of a slow-moving climbing party or back at the patrol shack), whereas I’m focusing on a context where the gear would be used *only* in case of a crevasse fall, so less weight the better.
Thanks in advance for feedback!
picasaweb.google.com/jshefftz/LightweightZDrag
...is my version of a very lightweight crevasse rescue setup with the absolute minimum amount of gear. Captions provide explanations and caveats.
My goal is a setup that can rescue a skier who has been unroped but is wearing a harness. I’ve had a reasonable amount of training (from Chauvin Guides, NH AMC, and my ski patrol) for crevasse rescue and hauling systems in general, but the assumption for that training has always been that everyone has *lots* of gear (either as part of a slow-moving climbing party or back at the patrol shack), whereas I’m focusing on a context where the gear would be used *only* in case of a crevasse fall, so less weight the better.
Thanks in advance for feedback!
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- gregL
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18 years 7 months ago #178429
by gregL
Replied by gregL on topic Re: Absolute Minimum Crevasse Rescue Setup?
The more I practice hauling people out of crevasses, the less confidence I have in my ability to pull someone out on a skinny, entrenched rope with a "Z" pulley system. Especially if it's just me. If it's just an emergency system, have you thought about saving rope weight by going with a 7mm static line, maybe 25 meters, and carrying a bit more hardware so you could set up a Canadian Drop Loop (Z on a C) system? Maybe one of those DMM Revolver biners to take some friction out of your pulley point?
Nice choice of anchors, BTW!
Nice choice of anchors, BTW!
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18 years 7 months ago #178432
by Jonathan_S.
Replied by Jonathan_S. on topic Re: Absolute Minimum Crevasse Rescue Setup?
Yes, I've thought about static line, but that means losing any versatility for using the rope for anything else. Hmm, tradeoffs....
I've have some training on the Canadian drop loop system -- Chauvin Guides is a big fan of it. Besides a bit more hardware and knowledge, seems to require a much longer length of rope though.
I've have some training on the Canadian drop loop system -- Chauvin Guides is a big fan of it. Besides a bit more hardware and knowledge, seems to require a much longer length of rope though.
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18 years 7 months ago #178433
by gregL
It does use a bunch more rope, but if the victim isn't too far down it could work. We set up several CDL systems last weekend on 35 meter ropes with the victim ~20 ft. into the crevasse and the anchors ~15 ft. from the lip (our scenario assumed that the victim was already tied in as the end person on the rope, so around 35-40 ft. of rope was unusable). We tied a figure 8 about five feet down the first strand of the "C" loop for the pulley point (to move it closer to the crevasse) and were able to pull effectively without too many resets. Sure made it easier; I PROBABLY would have been able to pull someone my size out by myself.
Replied by gregL on topic Re: Absolute Minimum Crevasse Rescue Setup?
seems to require a much longer length of rope though.
It does use a bunch more rope, but if the victim isn't too far down it could work. We set up several CDL systems last weekend on 35 meter ropes with the victim ~20 ft. into the crevasse and the anchors ~15 ft. from the lip (our scenario assumed that the victim was already tied in as the end person on the rope, so around 35-40 ft. of rope was unusable). We tied a figure 8 about five feet down the first strand of the "C" loop for the pulley point (to move it closer to the crevasse) and were able to pull effectively without too many resets. Sure made it easier; I PROBABLY would have been able to pull someone my size out by myself.
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