Thank you all for you help and advice! the more beta the better, high pressure and sun will help too.
the split boarder friend got sick and bailed
So my fiance and I will head up tommorrow (on AT gear with crampons) and get at it.
We'll be trying to stay ahead of the weekend rush and will plan to establish high camp Thursday evening. Say hey if you're up there, Karen is on Black Diamond Crossbows, and I'm on Volkl Mantras, all 191 cm of em!
Cheers,
Jim