The Tooth Peak (attempted)

12/23/20
WA Snoqualmie Pass
630
5
Posted by alpinedad on 12/27/20 7:20pm

It’s been my bucket list for last few years and still is. It’s more like mountaineering than TAY but I will post the report. On 12/23/20, I tried to go (summit) the tooth peak at Pineapple Pass. Snow conditions were good solid everywhere all the way to south ridge underneath the cornice. The rock was mostly  dried with some patches of snow but manageable. We climbed with ski boots and crampons. However, due to the osteoarthritis on my hip, I had to bail at the 2nd pitch. But it was awesome experience of tasting a true PNW ski mountaineering with a guide.

The conditions at Tooth Peak were in prime as of 12/23/20. 

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The most difficult part of trip was this section: approaching S ridge.

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The rock was mostly dried and no ice. But we used one ice ax as more like dry tool.


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We took the normal rappel route to exit to ridge. There was some icy section after passing the cornice but about 25 meters down, it’s all deep powder. Transition to ski at the middle of rappel route and skiing down was damn good.


That's one way to avoid the usual queues during the summer.


Quite the adventure, @alpinedad - thanks for sharing. Best of luck with the hip going forward.


Wild exposure on that second pic. Wearing a surgical mask in the gnar is the look of 2020. 


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alpinedad
2020-12-28 03:20:38