In Orbit: Dakobed (Part 1)

WA Cascades West Slopes Central
Posted by Jens Holsten on 6/30/20 9:37am

On the afternoon of 6/20, Phil and I started up the North Fork of the Sauk. Cool breezes and lingering clouds dulled the edge of big packs. At dusk, in fog, we pitched camp at a saddle just west of White Pass. Monday morning dawned clear. We broke down the Mid and skied across Glacier Basin and the White Chuck towards Dakobed.


It was a clear, hot day so crossing the Suiattle Desert, I mean Glacier, and then under Disappointment Peak was tough. We paced ourselves and got it done, intersecting the Cool Glacier mid afternoon. We ripped skins and skied boot top corn (mank haha) down to a wonderful camp spot right on the divide of the Cool and Chocolate Glaciers.


After a couple of hours out of the sun, we climbed up the Cool and then crossed onto the Chocolate at 9,200 feet. We skied off the top just past 8 PM, forgoing the headwall in favor of skiing in pink light down west facing pitches that were more inviting given the snow conditions.


On the way up we used the rope to manage one intimidating crevasse. It wouldn't be a problem to ski back over, but we decided to jump a little gap at 9,600 feet, cross a steep slope and turn the corner back onto the Cool. We were glad we did. A wonderful pitch, steeper and without cracks, led directly to our camp.


Tuesday morning we skied down onto the Chocolate and then crossed the North Guardian Glacier before skinning up the Dusty Glacier to where it meets the Kennedy Glacier at 8,600 feet.


We dropped our packs here and booted up Frostbite Ridge to the Rabbit Ears. The snow was pretty dang soft, but we deemed the ski manageable and enjoyed climbing the beauty line.

Reply to this TR

Jens Holsten
2020-06-30 16:37:56