April 30-May 2, 2004, Eldorado/Austera
4/30/04
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
2527
2
Took off Friday with the good weather forecast and soon was greeted at the Marblemount RS as the first visitors of the season. After a quick register and blue bag pickup, arrived at the Eldorado Cr TH at about 9:30. The "normal" log crossing was found to be more convoluted than I recall, but it worked -- had to manage with a few large roots to reach main log, then a couple short hops in the water to sandbar, followed by a bunch of fallen trees and debris. Water level was higher on way out which turned the hops into knee deep wading.
Found the climbers trail without a problem, and carried skis +2000' to the top of the boulder field before putting on skis. A large group of AAI leaders in training greeted us on their way out leaving post holes in route to Eldorado. Snow was mushy most of the way until higher on Inspiration Gl. Reached our bivy site at the base of Eldorado around 5pm with spectacular views of the N side of Forbidden and surrounding peaks. Had thoughts of climbing Eldorado, but decided to rest for tomorrow's tour.
Surprisingly, the snow froze overnight and gave us higher hopes for decent skiiing. Toured under the S side of Klawatti and checked out the S col route which appeared to be filled with some sluffs/debris, so decided to continue out to Austera. The firm conditions were skinnable without aid of crampons (although would have been really nice in a few spots). Crevasses were visible in several spots but never problematic. We had gotten a later than ideal start, and reached the base of Austera around 10:30 (about 3 hours). Could easily be done in less time. Also had considered going to Primus, but it appeared to be spotty in sections with lots of rocks showing from several hundred feet from summit.
After scrambling to the summit of Austera and taking a lunch break, we did a 1000' run SE at about noon down toward Klawatti Lake. Conditions were good creamy corn snow atop a firm base, but quickly getting grabby. At about 7200', we reached the transition to knee deep mush where the slope steepened. A ski cut set off a point release sluff that ran 1000' down and collected an impressive amount of snow, so we decided to turn around. This would be a great 35 degree run with better conditions -- not sure this section ever refroze, but an earlier start would definitely have been preferrable.
We toured back on the N side of Klawatti and Tepeh towers. Took a short run on the McAllister Gl which was quite good on N facing aspect. This part of the tour provides a quite wild and remote feeling with amazing glaciated terrain and surrounding spires. Arrived back at camp by about 3:30 with thoughts, again, of climbing Eldorado. But with the warm weather and softening conditions, thought it would be better to save for Sun morning. Unfortunately, we awoke Sunday to strong winds, rain and limited visibility after being spoiled by two blue bird days. Decided to head out early for the car and had to forego plans for a loop trip out via Torment/Boston Basin. Arrived at the car around 10:00am, back home by 2:00, really glad to have taken off Friday.
This is a great tour with lots of options and potential ski descents in the right conditions. Look forward to going back again. Some pictures to follow.
http://community.webshots.com/album/141385845MdaPpp
Found the climbers trail without a problem, and carried skis +2000' to the top of the boulder field before putting on skis. A large group of AAI leaders in training greeted us on their way out leaving post holes in route to Eldorado. Snow was mushy most of the way until higher on Inspiration Gl. Reached our bivy site at the base of Eldorado around 5pm with spectacular views of the N side of Forbidden and surrounding peaks. Had thoughts of climbing Eldorado, but decided to rest for tomorrow's tour.
Surprisingly, the snow froze overnight and gave us higher hopes for decent skiiing. Toured under the S side of Klawatti and checked out the S col route which appeared to be filled with some sluffs/debris, so decided to continue out to Austera. The firm conditions were skinnable without aid of crampons (although would have been really nice in a few spots). Crevasses were visible in several spots but never problematic. We had gotten a later than ideal start, and reached the base of Austera around 10:30 (about 3 hours). Could easily be done in less time. Also had considered going to Primus, but it appeared to be spotty in sections with lots of rocks showing from several hundred feet from summit.
After scrambling to the summit of Austera and taking a lunch break, we did a 1000' run SE at about noon down toward Klawatti Lake. Conditions were good creamy corn snow atop a firm base, but quickly getting grabby. At about 7200', we reached the transition to knee deep mush where the slope steepened. A ski cut set off a point release sluff that ran 1000' down and collected an impressive amount of snow, so we decided to turn around. This would be a great 35 degree run with better conditions -- not sure this section ever refroze, but an earlier start would definitely have been preferrable.
We toured back on the N side of Klawatti and Tepeh towers. Took a short run on the McAllister Gl which was quite good on N facing aspect. This part of the tour provides a quite wild and remote feeling with amazing glaciated terrain and surrounding spires. Arrived back at camp by about 3:30 with thoughts, again, of climbing Eldorado. But with the warm weather and softening conditions, thought it would be better to save for Sun morning. Unfortunately, we awoke Sunday to strong winds, rain and limited visibility after being spoiled by two blue bird days. Decided to head out early for the car and had to forego plans for a loop trip out via Torment/Boston Basin. Arrived at the car around 10:00am, back home by 2:00, really glad to have taken off Friday.
This is a great tour with lots of options and potential ski descents in the right conditions. Look forward to going back again. Some pictures to follow.
http://community.webshots.com/album/141385845MdaPpp
Paul Russell.
I'm curious. Is the reason for taking the Eldorado Creek approach due to the planned Boston Basin exit, or would you have used the Eldorado Creek approach anyway?
Thanks for the report.
I'm curious. Is the reason for taking the Eldorado Creek approach due to the planned Boston Basin exit, or would you have used the Eldorado Creek approach anyway?
Thanks for the report.
I think Eldorado Cr is more direct, and we hadn't really decided for sure about the exit via Boston Basin at the start. You could certainly do it vice versa -- would be helpful to be familar wtih the Eldorado Cr route if exiting that way.
Had also considered an approach via Sibley Cr since it puts you higher at the start. We didn't have a second car however (although could bike it). Sibley Cr was also a concern due to its S aspect and a couple gullies with the warmer weather.
Had also considered an approach via Sibley Cr since it puts you higher at the start. We didn't have a second car however (although could bike it). Sibley Cr was also a concern due to its S aspect and a couple gullies with the warmer weather.
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