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Etymology of "beta" meaning advance info

  • hankj
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13 years 3 months ago - 13 years 3 months ago #206736 by hankj
Hey there brotha(and sista) hood of the goretex pants!

I used the term beta meaning informal info about in casual conversation recently and no one knew what I meant!  I did a little asking around and heard the term descends from climbing and refers to Betamax, probably from the era in which it became common to video tape routes -- so "do you have any beta on that."

Can anyone confirm or deny the origin of this BC slang? 

Thx, happy snowy tidings!

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  • Scotsman
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13 years 3 months ago - 13 years 3 months ago #206737 by Scotsman
www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=beta
I think it's #2

But seriously,

From Wikipedia
The original use of the term Beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber, Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format. This was actually a play on words, as Jack would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?

From Mountainproject.com discussion on climbing terms.
3. Slang used by climbers to describe things that ordinary language also describes, such as sending and whipping. Also the obnoxious use of crux as a verb (can't bring myself to type that). My favorite in this category is beta, which traces its etymology back to Jack Mileski and the now defunct Sony Betamax standard.


More from the same thread that I thought could be easily translated for skiers.
Gomer: A beginner, oftentimes a non-common-sense-having person.
Tax: To come upon other climbers and invade their space (also see Morrison, CO).
Bumbler: A total beginner, though may have more common sense than the gomer.
Getting Taxed On: Being told to "come on" or being asked the grade, or to listen to others (taxers) being told to "come on."
Janky: Similar to manky. Something that is in a state of less than ideal condition. ex: Mike fell from the crux onto that janky talus landing, now he suffers from jankles.
Jankles: Ankles that have become janky from excessive bouldering falls.
Dab: To touch the ground inadvertently while climbing, may invalidate an ascent.
Tax-Marks: Particularly large and ugly tick-marks, often seen being used by euro-taxers.
Bungle: To completely fuck up a sequence on any given climb.
Figure 4/Figure of 4: To place a leg over an arm to reach a hold, sometimes used if climber lacks lock-off strength. The climbers body should resemble the number 4.
Techy: A climb that is thin and technical, and less on the dynamic side.
Taxers: People who make climbing suck and are obnoxious (like paying taxes). Common traits include use of tick-marks, asking about the grade, offering loud and distracting encouragement, being a gym rat, and all-around just making it look bad. Taxers from europe are euro-taxers, gym rats are gym-taxers and so on and so forth.
Gumby: an incompetent, possibly dangerous climber.


I think I may be a Euro-Taxer with jankles.
or for instance.

There were some TAY gomers being Metro-taxers on the Muir snowfield after getting bad beta from Andrew Carey regarding snow depth restrictions. They were dabbing and bungling and nearly got lost. Their TLT5's really messed up their jankles. Gumbies!

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  • hankj
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13 years 3 months ago #206739 by hankj
Thanks! I suspect the meaning of the term originates not in video taping but from the notion of beta testing, and the "beta, max" thing is just clever language applied ex post facto, max!

Lots of fun slang in climbing, that's for sure

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  • rlsg
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13 years 3 months ago #206747 by rlsg
JINGUS!!! sp?

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13 years 3 months ago #206748 by rlsg
JINGUS!!!  sp?

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  • Lowell_Skoog
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13 years 3 months ago #206749 by Lowell_Skoog
The first time I heard this term was in a Rock & Ice magazine article. It might have been in the 1980s or early 1990s. The title of the article was "Fifty classic rock climbs in America betamaxed" (or something like that).

The shorter version ("beta") came later as I recall.

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